The glory of the PharaohsWeigall, Arthur E. P. Brome (Arthur Edward Pearse Brome)
History
The glory of the Pharaohs
Weigall, Arthur E. P. Brome (Arthur Edward Pearse Brome)
Egypt -- Antiquities
Behind some rocks we came across the skeleton of a sniper, still clad in
a few rags of tattered blue. By his side were four used and three unused
cartridges; and a bullet-hole in his forehead explained the latter.
Under another skeleton the soft sand was caked into a solid lump, where
the blood had flowed from the fatal wound. A group of bodies in the open
plain marked the site of a last stand; and the bones of two jackals near
by suggested the scene of savage feasting and quarrelling which took
place under the moon for many nights after the slaughter. The battle was
fiercely contested, and under the blazing summer sun it must have been a
severe test of endurance to the Egyptian officers and men, most of whom
were used to the more temperate climate of the north of Egypt. One
portly officer told me that his tongue swelled in his mouth from thirst,
and after the battle it was a good six hours before he could swallow
more than a few drops of water at a time.
We spent the night at Derr, the capital of Lower Nubia, and early next
morning steamed down to the temple of Amada, which stands on the left
bank a few miles down stream.
Our next stop was at Korôsko, where the river bank is lined with the
ruins of the barracks of the British troops stationed there during the
troubled days of the ’eighties. We climbed up a hill behind these ruins,
on the summit of which a guard-house is erected, where a view is to be
obtained of the valley along which the road to the Sudan leads out. It
was along this road that General Gordon made his way to Khartûm in 1884.
In this valley one may still see the tracks of the carts and
gun-carriages of the ill-fated expedition which set out from here under
Hicks Pasha and was utterly annihilated in the desert. The tracks pass
down the valley and disappear amongst the hills; and even so the
expedition disappeared and was swallowed up. Some of the enemy, now good
servants of the Government, will tell you how false guides misled the
troops, and how they were shot down as they lay exhausted by thirst
within a mile of the wells. At the mouth of this valley there is the
cemetery, where some forty British officers and men lie buried. The
tombstones, badly engraved by the regimental sculptor, and almost all
bearing the one remembered text, “God is Love,” cut in shaky letters,
are inclined, as my friend put it, to give one the hump; and we walked
back in silence to the steamer, leaving our fellow-countrymen to the
complete stillness of this now deserted corner of the world, where, at
all events, they must sleep sound.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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