The glory of the PharaohsWeigall, Arthur E. P. Brome (Arthur Edward Pearse Brome)
History
The glory of the Pharaohs
Weigall, Arthur E. P. Brome (Arthur Edward Pearse Brome)
Egypt -- Antiquities
From Korôsko we steamed all day down to Kubbân and Dakkeh, some seventy
miles above Aswân. We spent the night at the latter place, and upon the
following day visited the temples of Gerf Husên and Dendur, halting in
the evening at Kalâbsheh, where the largest temple in Lower Nubia
stands. This building is now deeply flooded when the reservoir is full,
but it has been so thoroughly strengthened that there is no danger of it
falling. Then, next morning, we steamed through the pass, under the
granite cliffs, and halted at Tafeh, which lies on the west bank. The
pent-up river has here inundated many acres of cultivable ground, and
for a considerable distance we rowed in a small boat amidst palms and
acacias standing in the flood. A little temple erected on what now is an
island rises amidst the trees, and is reflected in the still water.
There can be no doubt that the making of the reservoir has here
converted mediocre scenery into a very paradise of beauty. The shadow of
the trees upon the Nile, the sunlight that penetrates through the trees
and illumines the grasses and plants below the surface, the granite
cliffs that come down to the river and form a dark background to the
clear water, combine to form a picture of extraordinary charm. The
temperature was over 110 in the shade; and my companion who was not used
to the climatic conditions of the upper country, said wistfully that he
expected to have a fit at any moment. We reached the top, however,
without accident; and here the view was sufficiently magnificent to
divert all thought from physical discomforts. Below us the Nile made its
way through the pass, bordered at the entrance by the vivid green of the
trees; and beside us the picturesque ruins of a Roman pavilion made the
scene work on the imagination as it did on the senses. “In this very
pavilion,” said I, “Juvenal may have sat to admire this self-same
prospect; for one of the garrisons under his command was to be found
here.” The thought set my friend quoting from the “Satires”; and, as the
perspiration ran like tears down his cheek, he had the hardihood to
recite those lines from the Fifteenth Satire: “That nature gave the
noble man a feeling heart she proves herself by giving him tears.” After
that we could but return to the steamer.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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