The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and PatagoniaSpears, John Randolph
History
The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and Patagonia
Spears, John Randolph
Patagonia (Argentina and Chile) -- Description and travel
Next to an intrigue, the gaucho loves to gamble with cards and play
billiards. He is altogether too excitable to make a gambler fit to
compete with the cold-blooded professional from the Rocky Mountain
mining camps, but he nevertheless acquires great skill in the
manipulation of a deck of cards, and he educates his eyes until he can
detect the slightest marks on the back of a card, and so recognize the
hand of an opponent. Indeed, cheating is counted as a mark of superior
skill in playing any game of cards. The gaucho would be greatly
astonished as well as angered if called a rascal for cheating.
At convenient distances across the pampas, and at every railway
station, will be found the gaucho saloons. They are mud-walled huts, of
course, but larger than the homes of the gauchos. The walls will be
found occupied with various Government ordinances relating to affairs in
the district, and especially to the sale of liquors. With these will be
great, crude lithographs, representing events in the last revolution, or
some other fighting scenes. Mingled with both ordinances and lithographs
are the tiny pictures that come with the packages of cigarettes on sale
everywhere. These cigarette pictures are of a sort to make a North
American, or even a North American manufacturer of cigarettes, gasp.
They contain illustrations of, and conversations between, men and women
that are almost always indecent, and invariably of a sort of wit that
makes the gaucho scream with laughter.
The pampa saloons sell but two kinds of drinks that are reasonably
pure--rum and beer. The beer is made in the suburb of Buenos
Ayres--Quilmes--and Quilmes beer is good. The native rum is consumed in
vast quantities by the gauchos, but it is not popular with ranch owners
simply because it is cheap. One would as soon expect to find Stock
Exchange brokers working the growler after a day's business as to see a
pampa ranch owner bring out a bottle of rum.
The liquor glasses of the pampa saloon are peculiar. They are water
tumblers in shape and outer dimensions, while the capacity is that of
New York whiskey glasses. The amount of glass in one will make it weigh
nearly half a pound. A more compact or better shaped missile for a
saloon fight would be hard to find.
Gaucho etiquette, as already intimated, is a matter demanding the
closest study of the stranger. That the gaucho is hospitable, and in his
way generous, need not be said. The stranger who enters a pampa saloon
will be asked to drink, without fail. If he wishes to drink he should
say so, and when he has swallowed his potion should ask the other fellow
to have something. But if he does not wish to drink he need not do so,
provided he knows how to refuse. The correct form of refusal is to say:
"Many thanks, sir; many thanks. I have had all that I wish to drink, but
will you not give me the pleasure of paying for the drinks for yourself
and the gentlemen, your friends?"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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