The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and PatagoniaSpears, John Randolph
History
The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and Patagonia
Spears, John Randolph
Patagonia (Argentina and Chile) -- Description and travel
Among the great variety of books in South America now accessible to
readers of English the majority refer in one way or another to the
Argentine Republic partly because it is a leading nation there, but
chiefly because Buenos Ayres is, as its people say, "the Athens of South
America." Nearly all these books have been written by Englishmen, and it
is to English writers that Americans commonly look with confidence for
information about many other things, and in many other matters, than
those of geography. Because of this tendency and trustfulness of
American readers I think I cannot do better, in concluding this sketch
of Argentine gauchos, than to quote a sentence from a work entitled
_Argentine, Patagonian, and Chilian Sketches_, by Mr. C. E. Akers. He
says (page 115): "The native gaucho, too, is not a very highly
interesting individual."
CHAPTER XIII.
PATAGONIA'S TRAMPS.
A number of surprises await the traveller who visits Patagonia, but
probably none is greater than the sight of the tramps sure to be found
at almost every port. There is nothing especially surprising in the
quality or grade of the tramps; they are the same uncleanly loafers that
offend the eye on the highways of the United States, but to find them on
the desert and tramping from place to place, that is remarkable.
For, consider what Patagonia between the Rio Negro and the Strait of
Magellan is as a place of human residence. The settlements are hundreds
of miles apart. One who rides from place to place cannot travel in a
straight line, but must go hither and yon to reach the springs of sweet
water, and even then, in many places, the known springs are from 100 to
130 miles apart. In very many parts of the desert, only the best horses
and men can stand the terrors of thirst and heat by day and of thirst
and cold by night.
Worse yet, it is for the most part a trackless desert. No wagons are
used, and the hoofs of the unshod horses that are occasionally taken
over the route do not leave a trail that any one can follow.
Nevertheless, in spite of all this--in spite even of the fierce storms
of sleet and hail--tramps are to be found at about every settlement, and
in some way they get on from place to place, seeing the country in true
tramp fashion, and living on the food and wearing the cast-off clothing
and drinking the liquor they beg from the more or less industrious
people found in the region. I say more or less industrious people
advisedly, for the reason that tramps are found not only among the
ranches of the energetic sheep farmers, but also in the wigwams of the
Indians.
I got my first view of a Patagonian tramp at the first Patagonian port I
entered--Madryn, on the shore of New Gulf. The Captain of the Port had a
United States wife, and, on learning my nationality, made me at home at
his house. While I was in the parlor talking to a number of people a man
came to the open door and knocked. The Captain's wife came to the
Captain and said:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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