The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and PatagoniaSpears, John Randolph
History
The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and Patagonia
Spears, John Randolph
Patagonia (Argentina and Chile) -- Description and travel
"There is that vagabond again." Then she asked me if I had expected to
find tramps like the Yankee article in Patagonia. I followed the Captain
out in order to see the fellow, and found a man with unkempt red hair
under a badly worn soft hat, a face that was of a pinkish red color and
blotched with big freckles, a thin, sandy moustache, and thin, sandy
beard, a coat and trousers but no shirt or socks, and a pair of shoes
that were almost devoid of soles. In the presence of the official he was
meek and deprecatory. He wanted to make an explanation, but the official
would not listen. A naval sailor was called and ordered to put the tramp
into a lockup. Thereat the tramp brightened up greatly, and walked away
talking cheerfully in very bad Spanish to the sailor.
Then I learned something about the tramp. He had appeared at Madryn some
weeks before that, saying he had come from Buenos Ayres on a ship. He
was looking for work, too. Still no ship was then in from Buenos Ayres,
and when ranch work was offered to him he said that it was a kind of
work that he could not do. He loafed about Madryn, sleeping in the lee
of one house or another, and begging food first of the few families
there and then of the seamen who helped to keep up the dignity of the
Government establishments. When people began to treat him coolly he
wanted some one to take him to a little settlement sixteen miles away
along the shore of the gulf. No one would do it, so he started away
afoot. He had just returned from that settlement when I saw him.
"What will you do with him?" I asked.
"Give him some breakfast."
"And then?"
"He will have dinner. In the morning, after coffee, he must go."
There was but one route for him to travel--the little railroad that led
to the Welsh colony of Chubut. It was a route fifty-one miles long and
without water, but no one doubted that he would walk it without trouble.
I guess he didn't walk it, however. The one train of this road came to
town next day. I saw the tramp standing beside it while the crew were
busy with their work. There were in the train some open box cars, and
some that could be easily opened. While I was looking at the crew the
tramp disappeared and I saw no more of him, although I was in Madryn two
days longer. I think he beat his way to the colony in a freight car,
tramp fashion. The Welsh colony is sixty miles long and has some
thousands of inhabitants, all of whom were once poor, but have now at
least enough to eat and to wear. They remember when they were poor, and
they will give food and cast-off clothes even to this vagabond.
Still there was a mystery about the fellow. I wanted to learn how he got
to Madryn in the first place, but all that he would say was that he had
come in a ship, which was obviously untrue, unless he had come from some
small sailing vessel beating along the coast. But that seems an
impossible explanation of the matter, and the mystery remains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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