The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and PatagoniaSpears, John Randolph
History
The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and Patagonia
Spears, John Randolph
Patagonia (Argentina and Chile) -- Description and travel
One of the waiters had a history. He was a full-blooded Tehuelche
Indian. The Lieutenant, while leading a squad of sailors up the Rio
Negro in General Roca's war of extermination, heard a curious cry in the
thick boughs of a tree. A sailor climbed up, expecting to find some
strange beast or bird, but brought back a boy baby not over two years of
age. He had been hidden there in a three-prong fork by his mother as the
Indians fled because she was too much exhausted to carry him further. No
doubt many Indians did the same, but all the babies starved save this
one because the sailors held the territory. When old enough to serve as
an apprentice, the lad was shipped in the navy with his adopted father,
Mr. Wilson.
Certainly no other sergeant in the world has had such a history as this
one.
When we reached Port Desire we all went ashore to inspect the old ruins
of a Spanish fort, and then a desert cattle man invited us all to dine
with him.
We found the home of our host standing among the old ruins. The contrast
between the ancient Spanish and the modern Argentine architecture was
very great. The old walls were of thick masonry carried up as high as a
man could reach, and above these there had been wooden roofs thatched
with grass. The modern structure, built by the Argentine Government to
induce settlers to come, consisted of a light wooden frame entirely
covered in with corrugated iron. One sees just such houses in the mine
camps of the United States, where they are popular because cheaply and
quickly built. But not till one has been in such a house built where the
wind blows as it does on the Patagonia desert, can he fully appreciate
its capabilities as a musical instrument. When we came to sit down to
the long, bench-like table for dinner, after a walk over the hills that
had sharpened our appetites, we paused to listen as if to the notes of a
great organ played by the hands of a mad musician. Probably the
corrugations of the iron, the sharp edges of the plates, the lengths of
plates projecting unsupported beyond slender beams, and the differing
degrees of rigidness with which the plates were secured to the beams,
combined to vary the vibrations of the plates under the impulse of the
whirling wind squalls.
There were soft and smooth murmurs, hoarse boomings, fair altos, and
singing sopranos, alternately and combined in a way to interest and
distract every unaccustomed listener.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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