The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and PatagoniaSpears, John Randolph
History
The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and Patagonia
Spears, John Randolph
Patagonia (Argentina and Chile) -- Description and travel
The dinner was, in itself, a most interesting novelty. We had beef
roasted in a fashion which the natives call "meat with skin." The ribs
of a steer had been wrapped in the skin of the animal, and then impaled
on a long iron rod, which was thrust into the ground so that the
wrapped-up meat leaned directly above a small open fire. Here it had
remained for about three hours, while a patient native fed the flames
with brush, and occasionally turned the bundle of meat. It was then
removed, the skin was stripped off, and it was brought, dripping with
hot juice, in a big pan to the table, where the hungry passengers
awaited it, knives in hand.
The knives were of a class novel to an American, and, in fact, so was
everything about the table. Each knife blade was a triangle, an inch
broad at the handle, and tapered to an acute point, four and a half
inches away. This was a good shape for the usual purpose for which it
was designed--the skinning of animals, but it was not a good table
knife. Even at that the ranchman had not enough to go round, and three
of us had to use the knives we had carried, in anticipation of such a
lack. Shallow tins served as plates. And yet, in spite of so great
poverty in table furniture, we had an abundance of very good claret,
served in glasses of a proper shape.
The food, too, was as surprisingly good as the wine. No better roast was
ever carved than that, and it was flanked with baked armadillos, the
most toothsome morsel I had ever seen. Both kinds of meat were seasoned
with salt and pepper only. With these we had hard biscuit of the Buenos
Ayres sort--an oblong, globular little loaf, say two by three inches
large in its longest and shortest diameters. The absence of garlic and
Italian sauces completed our pleasure, and black coffee, served in tin
cups, ended the meal.
The next port at which we called was Santa Cruz. The great profits made
by the sheep owners who brought their stock from the Falklands to the
Strait of Magellan, induced many of the young men of the Falklands to
come over and try their luck in Patagonia. The Argentine Government
encouraged them by giving ten-year leases on pasture land at the rate of
$60 national money per year per league, and at the average one league
would hold 1200 sheep. The traveller will hear all about the increase in
the flocks on the Santa Cruz River before he gets there, and the stories
of the wool shipments will prepare him to see a small but bustling
community when he arrives. I really expected to see a large as well as a
bustling place.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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