THE GOURMET'S GUIDE TO LONDON BY LIEUT.-COL. NEWNHAM-DAVIS _Author of "The Gourmet's Guide to Europe"_ NEW YORK BRENTANO'S 1914 PRINTED BY THE RIVERSIDE PRESS LIMITED EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND [Illustration: THE CHESHIRE CHEESE _From a drawing by Harry Morley_] _The pleasures of the table are common to all ages and ranks, to all countries and times; they not only harmonise with all the other pleasures, but remain to console us for their loss.--_ BRILLAT SAVARIN. TO ALL GOOD GOURMETS PREFACE In describing in this book some of the restaurants and taverns in and near London, I have selected those that seem to me to be typical of the various classes, giving preference to those of each kind which have some picturesque incident in their history, or are situated amidst beautiful surroundings, or possess amongst their personnel a celebrated chef or _maître d'hôtel_. The English language has not enough nicely graduated terms of praise to enable me to give to a fraction its value to each restaurant, from the unpretentious little establishments in Soho to such palaces as the Ritz and Savoy, but I have included no dining-place in this volume that does not give good value for the money it charges. Twelve years ago I wrote a somewhat similar book, "Dinners and Diners," which ran through two editions, but when I looked it through last year I found that there had been so many changes in the world of restaurants, so many old houses had vanished and so many new ones had arisen, that it was easier to write a new book than to bring the old one up to date. Mr Astor very kindly gave me permission to use in this volume any of the series of "Dinners and Diners" articles that appeared in _The Pall Mall Gazette_, but it will be found that I have availed myself very sparingly of his kind permission. The chapters of this book appeared, with very few exceptions, in _Town Topics_, and I am indebted to the editor of that paper for his leave to gather them into book form. Mr Grant Richards, the publisher of this book, quite agrees with me that no advertisements of restaurants shall find a place within its covers. Should "The Gourmet's Guide to London" find a welcome from an appreciative public, and should, in due time, other editions of it be called for, I shall hope to broaden its scope to include in it some of the hostelries of Brighton and other seaside towns, also those of the great cities and great ports, and to describe some of those fine old country inns scattered about the kingdom where good old English cookery is still to be found in good old English surroundings. For the French of the menus I do not hold myself responsible. The kitchen writes the French that it talks and who am I, a mere Briton, that I should attempt to alter it? N. NEWNHAM-DAVIS. CONTENTS PAGE I OLD ENGLISH FARE 1 II SIMPSON'S IN THE STRAND 6