The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Coffee--no milk, even if we had wanted it, for milk and butter are not
allowed on the same table as flesh--and a liqueur of brandy, and then,
going downstairs, we looked into the two simple rooms, running into
each other, which form the public restaurant, rooms empty at nine P.M.,
but crowded at the midday meal.
Mr Goldstein, who was there, told us that his patrons had become so
numerous that he would soon have to move to larger premises, and may
by now have done so, and certainly the cooking at the restaurant is
excellent, and I do not wonder at its obtaining much patronage.
What this Gargantuan repast cost I do not know, for the designer of the
feast said that the bill was to be sent to him.
I think that a "kosher" dinner, if this is a fair specimen, is a
succession of admirably cooked dishes. But an ordinary man should be
allowed a week in which to eat it.
XXIV
THE MITRE
AT HAMPTON COURT
We all know that in the spring a young man's fancy lightly turns to
thoughts of love, but it is not such common knowledge that in the early
summer the thoughts of a man of mature age turn with equal agility to
duckling and green peas. And with duckling and green peas I always
associate the Mitre at Hampton Court. So it came to pass that I asked a
crony of like tastes to myself to meet me on a spring Sunday at Hampton
Court in the late afternoon, and suggested that we should walk in the
gardens of the Palace and see the rhododendrons, which were then in
great beauty, and that we should afterwards dine at the Mitre, sup
green pea soup and eat duckling and green peas.
The Mitre is the most typically late Georgian, or early Victorian,
inn that I know of in the neighbourhood of London, and its great
attraction is that it has kept the old cookery, the old furniture, the
old pictures, the old china, the old plate, and last, but not least,
the old manners. It has been quite unconscious of the changes in the
outside world, it knows nothing of electric light and such newfangled
ideas, there are no French rolls to be found in its bread baskets, and
its ducklings are spitted and roasted before an open fire, being well
basted the while.
This, very briefly, is the history of the Mitre. It is the direct
successor of the Toy Inn, an old house which stood on Crown property,
and the lease of which expired about the year of the battle of
Waterloo. The Toy was pulled down, and Mr Goodman, and Mr Sadler with
him, were obliged to look for a new home in which to carry on the old
traditions. This they found in three houses standing together near the
wooden bridge (alas and alack that the picturesque old bridge has given
place to the dull-red iron horror which was built in 1865!), and one of
the charms of the Mitre is the quaint irregularity of its architecture,
the brown bricks and red tiles of its face turned towards the Palace,
its white face and slate roof on the river side, the great wistaria and
the ivy knitting together all the various features.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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