The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Six o'clock was the hour at which I had asked my crony to meet me on
the steps of the Mitre that we might consult together as to the menu of
our dinner, and I found him waiting for me chatting to Mr Sadler, the
elder of the two sons of Mr Sadler the First, and in the background was
Bagwell, the head waiter, who is a model to all British head waiters.
He has the appearance and the comforting manner of a high dignitary of
the Church, and I am quite sure would wear knee-breeches and an apron
and rosetted tall hat with as good grace as any bishop in the land. The
oldest inhabitants of Hampton Court, when I have sung Bagwell's praises
to them, have said to me: "Ah, but you ought to have known Smith," the
head waiter who flourished some thirty years ago. But to them I reply
that not having known Smith it is a comfort to me to be acquainted
with Bagwell. Bagwell had on a card a suggested menu for our dinner,
which ran thus:--Green Pea Soup, Grilled Trout, Stewed Eels, Duckling
and Green Peas and New Potatoes, cold Asparagus and Gooseberry Tart.
The eels I looked upon as a superfluity, though they are one of the
dishes of the house and are kept alive in the hotel in tanks until the
moment comes for their sacrifice. I also parried the suggestion that
sweetbreads should be included, for I hold that a duckling, if he be
a good duckling, well roasted and filled with savoury stuffing, is so
good a dish that he requires no supplement of any kind.
When at seven we returned from our walk through the gardens of the
Palace a table had been spread for us in the bow-window, whence the
view of the river, and the house-boats, and the towing path, and the
walls of the Palace Gardens, and the big trees and the old gates, is a
very splendid thing. A quiet-footed, quiet-mannered waiter was ready
to attend on us, and on the table were the shining cruets and a little
loaf and a slab of beautiful butter, and to the tick of half-past seven
the soup in a plated tureen was put in front of me.
The soup was excellently hot and of a strength unusual in a vegetable
soup. It had, I fancy, been laced with all manner of good things. It
made an excellent commencement to the dinner. The trout, a fine salmon
trout, of a beautiful pink, came straight up from the grill on a plated
dish, and with it the Tartar sauce in a plated boat. When the cover was
taken off from the duckling, set down before me to carve, the sweet
savour of good roasting and the perfume of the stuffing gratified the
sense of smell. And that duckling was as tender as a duckling should
be, and the peas were large and cooked to the requisite degree of
softness, and the apple sauce was excellent. That our plates were the
old Spode plates, soft blue in their pattern, and that the knives and
forks and spoons were all of an old pattern, were all tiny points of
enjoyment. The asparagus was good green English asparagus, and the
crust of the gooseberry pie was of meringue-like lightness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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