The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The fight to obtain music at restaurants on Sundays was one of M.
Ritz's great battles. I remember the days, not so very long ago, when
a band could not play on Sunday in a restaurant unless some individual
dinner-giver engaged it to play for his guests, and had no objection
to the other diners listening to it. Another advance made by Ritz was
the obtaining of newly baked bread for those who lunched and dined
at the Savoy restaurant on a Sunday. The baker who at first supplied
this bread broke some law or some regulation in doing this, and was
summoned; but M. Ritz, not to be beaten, established a bakery in the
hotel to supply the bread. Other restaurants followed suit. He had
an enormous facility for quick work, no detail was too small for
him, and when he had made up his mind that a thing should be done he
took unlimited trouble to have it carried out. At one time, when he
managed the Carlton, he could not understand why the coffee made there
should not be quite up to the level of the coffee at his hotels on
the Continent. He tried every experiment possible, brought water from
all parts of England, took every precaution against the dampness of
our climate, and finally asked one of the Rümpelmayers, the great
pastrycook family of the south of France, to come to London to advise
him in this matter.
I used to see M. Ritz at this period of his life very often, and used
to chat with him on matters of _gourmandise_. Very slim, very quiet,
with nervous hands clasped tightly together, he would move through the
big restaurant seeing everything, saying a word under his breath to a
head waiter, bowing to some of the diners, staying by a table to speak
to others, possessing a marvellous knowledge of faces and of what the
interests were of all the important people of his clientele. There was
a maxim, he said, which should be carved in golden letters above the
door of every _maître d'hôtel_, and that maxim was, in English, "A
customer is always right," and he always bore this in mind. Whenever
at that period M. Escoffier invented a new dish a little jury of
three, M. Escoffier, Madame Ritz and M. Ritz, used to sit in judgment
on it in solemn conclave before it was allowed to appear on a menu
in the restaurant. I once asked Madame Ritz, who has been M. Ritz's
real helpmate and counsellor throughout his married life, to what
quality she attributed her husband's success in life, and she answered,
"sensibility," giving the word its French meaning.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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