The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The Ritz Hotel and Restaurant will keep in the remembrance of Londoners
the name of the foremost _hôtelier_ of our days, M. Ritz, a man whose
genius is written across Europe and America, from Paris to Frankfort,
from Biarritz to Salsomaggiore, from Lucerne to Madrid, from Budapest
to New York. Too much quick brain work unfortunately has broken down M.
Ritz's health, and he is never likely to take any share again in the
control of the hotels which bear his name. He was the man who first
taught the mass of the rich English how to dine in cultured comfort in
their own capital; yet to the great majority of those who benefited
by his perfect taste and his genius for giving unostentatious luxury
to the gourmets of the world he was an unknown personality. Duchesses
and actresses, legislators and actors, explorers and curates, all are
known to the public by their photographs in shop windows and in the
newspapers, but I never saw a photograph of Ritz in a Regent Street
shop or in a journal.
It was by chance that he first came to England. When the Savoy Hotel
was opened M. Ritz was manager of the Hotel National at Lucerne and of
the Grand Hotel at Monte Carlo: Mr D'Oyly Carte found him at the Grand
Hotel, and asked him if he would come to the Savoy for six months to
put the restaurant in order. He came, bringing with him M. Escoffier,
who had been chef at the Grand. Ritz at the Savoy made the supper
after the theatre the popular meal it still continues to be, though it
is, thanks to the Early Closing Act, a scramble to eat five-shillings'
worth of food in half-an-hour, and he also discovered, while at the
Savoy, that if a restaurant wishes a large number of its guests to
be of the softer sex a band is a necessity. He saw that an Austrian
band, engaged at the suggestion of Mr Hwfa Williams, kept the diners
half-an-hour longer at their tables over their cigars and coffee, and
that ladies soon came to consider a dinner unaccompanied by music
a tame feast. For the music, often over-loud, to the accompaniment
of which I eat my meals in most restaurants, I am not in the least
thankful to M. Ritz; but the majority of diners, especially those in
petticoats, if such things exist nowadays, think differently.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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