The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The great white stone building of the Ritz, with its arcaded front and
its entrance to the restaurant and ballrooms right in the middle of the
arcade, is a comparative new-comer to London, in that it was opened
in 1906. It is a building, inside and out, of the Louis XVI. period,
with every modern luxury added. The Winter Garden, where one awaits
one's guests, is a delightful place of creamy marble pillars and gilt
trellis-work, casemented mirrors, carved amorini and a fountain with a
gilt lead figure of "La Source" looking up at the golden cupids poised
above her. The little orchestra of the hotel plays in this Winter
Garden, and its music in no way interferes with the conversation in the
restaurant.
The restaurant itself may be said to be dedicated to Marie Antoinette,
for the gilt bronze garlands which hang from electrolier to
electrolier, forming an oval below the painted sky, were designed to
represent the flower decorations at one of Marie Antoinette's feasts,
and though the garlands have been much lightened, for at first they
were too heavy in design, they are still reminiscent of the poor
little queen who lived such a merry life and met so sad an end. It
is a restaurant of soft colours, of marbles, cream and rose and soft
green, of tapestried recesses and of handsome consoles in the niches.
Towards the Green Park long arched windows look on to one of the
pleasantest prospects in London, and below these windows and between
them and the Park is a little forecourt, in which a green tent is
pitched when a great ball is to be held in the suite of rooms below
the restaurant, and where on hot summer evenings dinner is served in
the open air. At one end of the restaurant is a gilt group of Father
Thames contemplating an exceedingly attractive lady who represents the
Ocean. Everything in the restaurant is of the Louis XVI. period, and
the Aubusson carpets and the chairs and all the silver and the china
and the glass used in the restaurant and the banqueting rooms harmonise
with that period.
The restaurant is not a very large one, and sometimes tables for its
guests are set in the Marie Antoinette room with which it connects,
and in that portion of the corridor which forms an ante-room. But
though it is not of a very great size, the Ritz has a most aristocratic
clientele. Royal personages often lunch and dine there, and diplomacy
regards it as its own particular dining place, for tables are retained
by the secretaries and attachés of two of the Embassies, the German and
the Austrian, and, I fancy, by a third one also.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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