The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Lady Amalthea had very graciously said she would dine with me at the
Ritz, so I went in the afternoon of a hot day to interview M. Kroell,
the manager, who stepped across Piccadilly from the Berkeley to succeed
M. Elles, who, for a time, managed both the Ritz in Paris and the Ritz
in London. With M. Kroell was M. Charles, the manager in charge of the
restaurant, and I asked that I might be given that evening a little
dinner for two, not of necessity an expensive dinner, but one suitable
for a warm evening, and I sent my compliments to M. Malley, the _chef
de cuisine_, and said that I hoped that I should find some of the
specialities of his kitchen amongst the dishes.
M. Malley came from the Ritz at Paris when the London Ritz was
first opened, having acquired his art at the Grand Véfour and the
Café Anglais. He presides over a very spacious range of white-tiled
kitchens, in which all the rooms which should be hot are divided by
a wide corridor from the rooms which should be cold, and he has a
talent for the invention of new dishes, amongst these being a very
splendid dish of salmon with a _mousse_ of crayfish, which he has
named after the Marquise de Sévigné, a reminiscence of his days at
Vichy, and his _pêches Belle Dijonnaise_, of which more anon. Russian
soups are one of the specialities of the Ritz kitchen, and there is a
Viennese pastrycook amongst the members of M. Malley's brigade, who
makes exquisite pastry. The late King Edward had a special fancy for
the cakes made at the Ritz, and a supply used to be sent to Buckingham
Palace, but M. Elles told me that this was a State secret, for M.
Ménager, the King's chef, might not have liked it to be known that
anything from another kitchen entered Buckingham Palace.
As I had left my dinner in the safe hands of the experts, so I also
left the question of the champagne we should drink, only asking that it
should be one recommended by the house.
Before going on my way I reminded M. Kroell that on the last occasion
that I had word with him he was presented with a miniature in
brilliants of the order bestowed on him by the King of Spain, and I
asked him if he had been awarded any other decorations. M. Kroell
laughed, and then modestly owned to the German military medal, and
as he told me this he involuntarily squared his shoulders as an old
soldier.
Lady Amalthea arrived with military punctuality (she is a soldier's
wife) in the best of spirits, wearing a dream of a dress, and her
diamonds and turquoises. A table had been kept for us at the upper end
of the room, where Lady Amalthea could both see all the guests and be
seen by them. She ran through a little selection from Debrett as she
took her seat, having scanned most of the diners as she came in, and I
was enabled to add to this by identifying a group at one of the tables
as some of the Peace Delegates from the Balkans.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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