The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Then we settled down to the infinitely important matter of seeing what
the dinner was that M. Malley and M. Charles in counsel had arranged
for us.
This is the menu, and though at first sight it seems a long one for two
people it is an exceedingly light dinner, and we neither of us ate the
tiny cutlets which were the _gros pièce_ of the feast. The wine to go
with it was a bottle of Roederer 1906:
Melon.
Consommé Glacé Madrilène.
Filet de Sole Romanoff.
Cailles des Gourmets.
Côtes de Pauillac Montpensir.
Petits Pois.
Velouté Palestine.
Poulet en Chaudfroid.
Salade à la Ritz.
Pêche Belle Dijonnaise.
The melon, delightfully cold, struck the right note in a dinner for a
hot evening; the Madrilène soup, beautiful in colour and flavoured with
tomato and capsicum, carried on the summer symphony; the Romanoff sole
was quite admirable, served with small slices of apple and artichokes
and with mussels, the apple giving a suspicion of bitter sweetness as
a contrast to the flesh of the fish. M. Charles happened to be near
our table at this period, not, I think, quite by chance. I assured
him that if there was such a thing as a gastronomic nerve M. Malley's
creation had found it. The quails formed part of a little pie brought
to table in a pie-dish of old blue willow pattern, and with them were
coxcombs and truffles and other good things. The _poulet en chaudfroid_
was a noble bird, all white, and in it and with it was a pink _mousse_
delicately perfumed with curry powder, a quite admirable combination.
The Ritz salad is of _cœurs de romaine_, with almonds and portions of
tiny oranges with it. Last of the dishes in the dinner came the _pêche
Belle Dijonnaise_, which is one of the creations which have made the
fame of M. Malley, and which will become historical. It is a delightful
combination of peaches and black currant ice with some cassis, a
liqueur of black currants, added to it, and it is called _Belle
Dijonnaise_ because of the old Burgundian proverb: _A Dijon, il y a du
bon vin et des jolies filles_.
I do not doubt that many people dined well in London on that hot June
evening, but this I will warrant, that no two people, however important
they might be, or whatever they paid for their dinner (my bill came to
£2, 10s.), dined better than did Lady Amalthea and I at the Ritz, and I
make all my compliments to M. Malley.
I should not do the Ritz full justice if I did not refer to the
banquets which are served in the Marie Antoinette room and in the great
white suite below the restaurant. As typical of the Ritz banquets I
give you the menu of one that Lord Haldane gave to the foreign officers
visiting London in June 1912, and I also give the accompanying wines:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account