The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Up some wooden stairs with leaden edges to them, stairs built for
use and not for ornament: and, the guests' coats being taken by a
clean-shaved butler in evening clothes, we are at once in the officers'
room.
It is a long room, lighted on one side by a great bow-window, flanked
by two other windows. At the farthest end of the room from the door
is a mantelpiece of grey and white marble. The walls are painted a
comfortable green colour, and there are warm crimson curtains to the
windows. There are many pictures upon the walls; and a large sofa,
leather-covered arm-chairs, and a writing-table in the bow of the
window give an air of comfort to the room. A great screen, which, in
its way, is a work of art, being covered with cuttings of all periods,
from Rowlandson's caricatures to the modern style of military prints,
is drawn out from the wall so as to divide the room into two portions.
On the door side of the screen stands in one corner the regimental
colour of the battalion finding the guard, and here, too, are the
bearskin head-dresses of the officers.
On the fireplace side of the screen is a table ready set for dinner,
the clear glass decanters at the corners being filled with champagne,
a silver-gilt vase forming the centre-piece, and candles in silver
candelabra giving the necessary light. By the fireplace the officers of
the guard, in scarlet and gold and black, are waiting to receive their
guests.
In addition to the officers of St James's guard, the adjutant and
colonel of the battalion that finds the guard, the two officers of the
Household Cavalry on guard at the Horse Guards and some of the military
officials of the Court have a right to dine. But it is rarely that all
entitled to this privilege avail themselves of it, and the captain and
officers of the guard generally are able to ask some guests to fill the
vacant chairs.
As, on the stroke of eight, on the evening I am writing of, we sat down
to dinner my host told me that he had ordered a typical meal for me.
This was the menu:
Potage croûte-au-pot.
Eperlans à l'Anglaise.
Bouchées à la moëlle.
Côtelettes de mouton. Purée de marrons.
Poularde à la Turque.
Hure truffée. Sauce Cumberland.
Pluviers dorés.
Pommes de terre Anna.
Champignons grillés.
Omelette soufflée.
Huîtres à la Diable.
The spatchcocked smelts, the boar's head, with its sharp-tasting sauce,
and the _soufflée_, I recognised as being favourite dishes on the
King's Guard.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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