The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
"very respectable French cookery is to be had."
"The Epicure's Year Book" gives amongst its menus of remarkable dinners
of 1867 one of the "Epicure" dinner served at the St James's. The
_dîner à la Russe_ was in those days ousting the dinner in the French
style, in which the dishes were placed in three services or relays
upon the table and carved by host and guests, and such an epicure as
Captain Hans Busk, who was the gourmet _par excellence_ of the sixties,
gave his guests at the United University Club very much such a dinner
as men eat to-day, though his dinners were of too many courses. But at
the Mansion House the first and second and third services were still
adhered to. Francatelli, though conforming to the new style, made
concessions to the old school, as this menu shows. His French was a
little shaky, for he did not know when "_à la_" should be used and when
it should not be used:
Les Huîtres.
_Potages_.--La purée de gibier à la chasseur; à la Julienne.
_Poisson_.--Les epigrammes de rougets à la Bordelaise; le saumon à la
Tartare.
_Entrées_.--Les mauviettes à la Troienza; les côtelettes à la
Duchesse; les medaillons de perdreaux à la St James; le selle de
mouton rôtie.
_Legumes ... Salade._
_Second Service_.--Le faisan truffé à la Périgueux; la mayonnaise de
crevettes; les chouxfleurs au parmesan; la charlotte de pommes; le
gâteau à la Cérito.
The St James's was not by any means the first hostelry at the corner
of Berkeley Street, for in the stage-coach days a coffee-house--the
Gloucester, I think--occupied the site, and some of the coaches for the
west used to start from it; but I have already given you a fill of the
history of the forerunners of the Berkeley, and will come at once to
recent years and the modern building.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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