The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
M. Diette, who was one of the men who awakened London from its
mid-Victorian gluttony and taught Londoners to dine lightly and dine
well, was for a time at the Berkeley before he went to the Continent
to make the Hotel du Palais at Biarritz a very splendid place of
entertainment. He died recently at Le Touquet, where one of his many
sons-in-law, M. Recoussine, is in command of two of the big hotels. In
1897 there were many alterations and additions made to the Berkeley,
the restaurant was almost doubled in size, and when M. Jules was
manager of the hotel and Emile was in charge of the restaurant, and
M. Herpin was _chef de cuisine_, the Berkeley was, as it is now, one
of the "best places" at which to dine in London. The restaurant in
those days was panelled with light oak, and the ante-room, by the
entrance, was all old gold. Jules was translated to the Savoy and now,
as a proprietor, is comfortably settled at the Maison Jules in Jermyn
Street. M. Kroell was another manager who stepped from the Berkeley
to a larger hotel, having only to cross the road to reach the Ritz.
Mr Raymond Slanz, the manager who controls the Berkeley in this year
of grace, is as eminent as any of his predecessors. He is young,
energetic, and has brains, which he has used unsparingly in keeping
the Berkeley abreast of the times. He is the most cosmopolitan of
managers, for he has gained his experience all over the Continent, in
England, America and South Africa. He has been the architect of his
own fortunes, for when he first came to London he started his upward
career from the position of extra waiter at the Savoy. The restaurant
to-day is all white; its walls have a deep white frieze, with on it
in relief a wood through the trees of which a mediæval hunting party
thread their way, half the animals that came out of the Ark being afoot
in this wonderful preserve. There is some gold ornamentation just below
the frieze and on the casings of the windows, and gilt electroliers are
in the centre of the panels. Shields of semi-opaque glass and lamps
hidden by the cornice throw light up on to the ceiling and there are
gilt capitols to the fluted columns. The rose and grey of the carpet
and the rose of the chair cushions form a pleasant contrast to the
white. The ante-room in which a string band of musicians in gorgeous
uniforms play has the same decoration as the restaurant. The Berkeley
restaurant flourishes so satisfactorily that more tables are wanted,
though it is comparatively lately that a new room was added, and the
space occupied by the cashiers is to be thrown into the restaurant.
M. Arturo Giordano, who is generally known as "Arthur" and who used
to oscillate between the Palais at St Moritz and the Berkeley, is now
permanently in charge of the restaurant, and M. J. Granjon, who came to
London from the Grande Cercle Républicain, and who has been created a
Chevalier of the Order of Mérite Agricole, is the _chef de cuisine_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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