The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
One warm July evening I found myself at eight o'clock dinnerless in
Mayfair. I was to have dined with friends at their house, but on
arriving there found that my hostess had been taken suddenly ill and
that dinner was the last thing concerning which the household was
troubling itself. My room under these circumstances was more welcome
than my company. My favourite table in my favourite club would, I
knew, be occupied by somebody else; the Berkeley was the nearest
restaurant, and I accordingly walked there and found one of the small
tables at the far end of the room unoccupied. At the Berkeley there
is always a _carte du jour_ with an abundant choice of dishes, those
ready being marked with a cross. It is the custom of the house, and
a very good one too, to allow the diners to choose their own dinner
from the _carte_ and to charge them half-a-guinea or twelve and six,
according to whether the dinner is a long one or a short one. I was in
the course of ordering a short dinner and had selected _rossolnik_, a
Russian soup, some turbot, a wing of a chicken _en cocotte_, and was
hesitating over the various _entremets_, when Arthur espied me, came to
my table and took matters into his own hands. He asked to be allowed to
alter my menu slightly in order that some of the specialities of the
house might play a part in it. I was nothing loth, for my dinner under
those circumstances became interesting, and I was prepared to consider
critically any of M. Granjon's creations that Arthur might put before
me. This was the menu:
Melon Cantaloup.
Crème Raymonde.
Turbotin Beaumarchais.
Suprême de Volaille Bagatelle.
Velouté Châtelaine.
Pêches Glacés Hortense.
The soup was a cream of chicken, delightfully soft, a very gentle
introduction to what was to follow. The _turbotin Beaumarchais_ is a
noble dish, a strong white wine sauce with the essence of the fish
in it, and sliced truffles, and mushrooms and carrots being served
therewith, parsley, and just a suspicion of onion. The _suprême de
volaille Bagatelle_ I recommend to anyone who, like myself, is
occasionally warned off red meats by sundry twinges, as being a dish
of fowl which is interesting and not in the least vapid. Asparagus and
mushrooms and truffles go with it, and the principal ingredients of the
sauce are port and cream reduced. The _entremet_ consisted of peaches
and grapes, raspberries, and a cream ice with, I fancy, more than one
liqueur added, the whole forming a noble _Coupe-Jacques_, served in a
silver bowl. My dinner being a short one, I had plenty of appetite left
for this admirable fruit dish.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account