The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The gallery had been built in 1832 as the Gallery of Practical Science,
at a time when object lessons in science were considered essential
for the improvement of youthful minds; and in the long gallery, which
is now a part of the restaurant, were working models of shaft wheels,
while down its centre ran, waist-high, a long tank with a suspension
bridge across it and a lighthouse in its midst. In this tank, working
models of steamboats with very long smoke stacks puffed up and down.
A gallery ran round this long hall and had pictures on its walls and
models on stands of the various forms of architectural pillars. The
Polytechnic, opened six years later, which this generation still
remembers in its Diving Bell and Pepper's Ghost days, was run on
similar lines. The gallery became subsequently a Marionette theatre, a
casino and the home of some negro minstrels, but it never settled down
successfully to any form of moneymaking until the young Gattis started
it on its career as a café restaurant. An habitué of the Gallery in
its scientific or in its casino days would only recognise the building
to-day by its arched ceiling and by the circular openings in the roof
for light and air.
Agostino and Stefano Gatti put marble-topped tables in the Gallery,
couches against the walls and chairs on the other side of the tables,
and in the basement they made billiard-rooms. Chops and steaks and
chip potatoes, the last a novelty to London, were the trump cards of
their catering. At first the magistrates, possibly suspecting that the
casino might be revived under another name, refused the Gallery a music
licence, but that was granted later on in its existence. The Adelaide
Gallery as a restaurant was a direct challenge to the old chop-houses.
It gave very much the same fare under more airy and more cheerful
conditions, and the Londoners took a wonderful fancy to the "chips."
My earliest memory of a visit to the Adelaide Gallery is a schoolboy
one, for I was taken there to sup after seeing Fechter play in _The
Duke's Motto_ at, I think, the Lyceum. I ate on that occasion chops and
tomato sauce, went on to pastry, and finished with a Welsh rarebit--a
schoolboy has no fear of indigestion. I came to know the restaurant
very well in the eighties, when I was quartered at Canterbury and at
Shorncliffe for a spell of home service. I got at that time as much fun
out of life in London as a Captain's pay and a small allowance would
permit. I had sufficient knowledge of matters gastronomic to know that
I received excellent value for my money at Gatti's, and the ladies to
whom I used to give dinners said that they liked Asti Spumante and
Sparkling Hock just as well as champagne--and perhaps they really did,
bless them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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