The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
If I have given so much space to a sketch of the great Maître-Chef, it
is not that he is the only man of talent amongst the personnel of the
Carlton. M. Kreamer, the manager, is eminent amongst his fellows. In
the restaurant M. Besserer, light of hair, and with a light curling
moustache, is an admirable Maître d'Hôtel, and the Carlton grill-room
(to which I shall give attention when I write of the grill-rooms of
London) owes much of its popularity to its manager, Signor Ventura.
And now for a little ancient history. Her Majesty's Opera House, with a
colonnade surrounding it in which were shops and a little restaurant,
Epitaux's, where the Iron Duke and other famous men gave dinner-parties
in the early Victorian days, stood at the corner of the Haymarket and
Pall Mall. If I wrote of the glories and the disasters of the big
house of song I should have to write a book. When a company bought
the site, and the Carlton and His Majesty's Theatre rose on it, the
colonnade disappeared from three sides, and all the shops on those
sides also vanished except the offices of Justerini and Brooks. These
wine merchants held to their old position, and their window front was
encased in the building of the new hotel without the business of the
firm suffering a day's interruption. A cigar store has since then found
an abiding place on the Pall Mall frontage. The name of Epitaux's was
taken by the restaurant next door to the Haymarket Theatre, but was
eventually dropped in favour of a more attractive title, the Pall Mall.
The tall porter outside the entrance of the Carlton in Pall Mall sets
the swing door in motion to let us through; coats and hats, cloaks and
furs are garnered from us as we pass through the ante-room, and then we
are in the palm lounge, that happy inspiration of the architect which
has been copied in other hotels through the length and breadth of the
habitable world. The double glass roof, letting in light but keeping
out draughts, was a novelty when the hotel was built. But, though this
palm court has been copied far and wide, it has never been bettered.
The terrace breaks up pleasantly the great width of floor space. The
tall palms, and the flowers and smaller palms before the terrace, and
the green cane easy-chairs give a sylvan touch to this great hall in
the heart of London; and, as an instance of perfect taste, notice the
little medallions of Wedgwood ware dependent from the capitals of the
creamy marble pilasters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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