The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The gastronomic scouts soon discovered that Peter Gallina in his
little restaurant was giving extraordinarily good value at very
moderate prices, and some of them sent me word concerning it. Mr
Ernest Oldmeadow, the distinguished novelist, was one of the first of
Gallina's customers, and brought many others to the newly established
restaurant. Mr G. R. Sims, the genial "Dagonet" of _The Referee_,
was one of the first among the scribes to tell the general public
of the existence of the Rendezvous, and he wrote a ballad in its
honour. I, in the early days of the existence of the restaurant, made
the acquaintance both of it and its proprietor, who then, as now,
affected clothes of an original cut. In his restaurant Peter Gallina
wears a small double-breasted white jacket, with skirts and a very
wide opening in front. This opening is filled by the most voluminous
black cravat that has been seen since the days of the Dandies. A small
white apron is another article of his costume. In those early days M.
Gallina oscillated rapidly and continuously between the kitchen and
the restaurant, first seeing that the dishes were properly prepared,
and then watching his customers appreciatively eat the food. He had
no licence then to sell wines, and a small boy was constantly sent
scurrying across the road to a wine-merchant's shop almost opposite,
a shop which should have interest for all readers of books, for its
proprietor is a well-known author.
M. Gallina in a little book of "Eighteen Simple Menus," with the
recipes for all the dishes, a very useful little book which he used
to give away to his customers, but which he now sells to them for a
shilling, has in a preface set down some "Golden Rules for Cooks," and
the first of these is "Buy good materials only. The best cook in the
world cannot turn third-class materials into a first-class dish." This
rule M. Gallina has always observed himself.
The Rendezvous has constantly been increased in size. A house next door
to it fell vacant, and M. Gallina at once took it and converted it into
part of his restaurant. Then with larger dining-room came the necessity
for a larger kitchen, and this matter was put in hand. A wine licence
granted to the restaurant brought with it all the responsibilities of
a cellar, and M. Gallina has now an admirable kitchen and offices,
with walls of shining white tiles, and a cellar big enough to hold
all the wine that his customers require. A tea and cake shop, with
tea-rooms on the first floor, the Maison Gallina, next door but one to
the restaurant, was the next achievement of the enterprising little
man, and, finally, he rounded off his restaurant by building at the
back a new room, all dark oak and mirrors and Oriental carpets, with a
handsome oak gallery running round it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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