The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
There is much history concerning the site on which the Pall Mall now
stands. In the latter years of the Stuart dynasty, when the lane which
led from Piccadilly down to the Mall gradually became a street of
houses, Charles II. gave permission to John Harvey and his partner to
sell cattle as well as fodder in the Haymarket. All along this market,
on both sides, inns sprang up, and one of them occupied the site where
the Pall Mall Restaurant now stands. The inn was pulled down early
in the eighteenth century, and on its site Mr Potter, a carpenter,
built a "summer" theatre; this theatre was converted by Samuel Foote
somewhere about 1760 into a winter theatre. Mr A. M. Broadley has
written for the proprietors of the Pall Mall an interesting booklet
which deals at length with this theatre and its managers, Foote and
the Colmans, and with the great actresses and actors and musicians
who appeared on its stage. Mozart played on the spinet there as an
infant prodigy; Margaret Woffington made her first bow to an English
audience in the part of Macheath in _The Beggars' Opera_, "after the
Irish manner"; and two actresses who married into the peerage--Lavinia
Fenton, who died Duchess of Bolton, and Elizabeth Farren, afterwards
Countess of Derby--played on its stage. But on 14th October 1820, the
Little Theatre, as it was called, closed its doors with the tragedy
of _King Lear_ and a farce. It was not at once pulled down, and was
still standing in a battered state when the present Haymarket Theatre,
built by John Nash, was opened in 1821, just a fortnight before the
coronation of George IV. When the Little Theatre was eventually pulled
down shops were erected on its site. Two of these were in the year of
the first Great Exhibition converted into the Café de l'Europe, the
great hall of which, somewhat altered, is the large room of the present
restaurant. Mr William John Wilde, who was Buckstone's treasurer at the
Haymarket Theatre, became the proprietor of the Café de l'Europe in the
late fifties, and as there was no early-closing law in those days the
café naturally enough became the favourite supping place for those who
had sat through a long evening at the theatre almost next door, and the
sturdy critics who congregated in the first row of the pit ate their
devilled bones and tripe and onions, Welsh rarebits, chops and potatoes
in their jackets, at the café after midnight and passed judgment on
the performances of Buckstone and Liston, Sothern and the other famous
comedians of the theatre as they supped. Mr D. Pentecost was the last
proprietor of the old café. He was, as "Dagonet" in _The Referee_ has
lately reminded us, a nephew of Pierce Egan, the author of "Tom and
Jerry," and he was, amongst other things, the refreshment contractor to
the Alhambra. He was also the proprietor of the Epitaux Restaurant in
the colonnade of the opera house in the Haymarket. When that building
was pulled down, in order that the Carlton and His Majesty's Theatre
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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