The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
should be built on its site, Mr Pentecost transferred the name of
Epitaux to the Café de l'Europe. The building was redecorated and MM.
Costa and Rizzi became the lessees. Ten years ago, as I have previously
written, MM. Degiuli and Boriani became the proprietors and gave the
restaurant its present name and its present appearance.
XLI
IN JERMYN STREET
MAISON JULES. BELLOMO'S. LES LAURIERS
Jermyn Street used to be sacred to small private hotels, shops and
bachelors' chambers, but the restaurants have now invaded it and there
are half-a-dozen places of good cheer which have their front doors
in the street, while some of the Piccadilly restaurants have a back
entrance there.
M. Jules had the happy idea of taking two houses, one of them at one
time the home of Mrs Fitzherbert, as a medallion of the head of King
George IV., found under the drawing-room floor proves, and converting
them into a hotel and restaurant. It has proved so successful in Jules'
case that he is now adding on to his hotel and restaurant, building at
the same time a nice little suite of rooms with bow-windows for himself
and his wife. As you walk down Jermyn Street from St James's Street
towards Lower Regent Street, the Maison Jules is on the right-hand
side. You cannot miss it, for an illuminated terrestrial globe and the
name above the doorway catch your eye. A little ante-room is separated
from the restaurant by a glazed screen to keep off draughts. The
restaurant itself, a long room running the whole width of the house,
is all white, with a little raised ornamentation on its walls, with
gilt capitals to the white pillars, and on the marble mantelpiece a
clock and candelabra of deep blue china and ormolu. At the end of the
room a big window, which is almost a wall of glass, is cloaked by
lace curtains. There is a second room running at right angles at the
back, which either can be used as part of the restaurant or can be
partitioned off.
Jules himself will welcome you as you come into the restaurant. I have
known him for many years, having first made his acquaintance when he
was manager at the Berkeley, when his hair was of lustrous brown, and I
have always been one of his supporters at the hotel in Piccadilly and
at the Savoy--when he became manager there, and now in Jermyn Street,
where, with his wife and his daughter, who has married the _chef de
cuisine_, and his son, who is following in his father's footsteps, he
controls the restaurant and the hotel. The girth of his waist may have
increased a little, possibly to match the bow-windows of those new
rooms, since I have known him, and his hair is now powdered with grey,
but his good-natured, round, rosy face, and his eyes, which almost
close when he smiles, remain the same. He is always so pleased to see
me that I find that a dinner at the Maison Jules does me more good than
most tonics do.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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