The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
There is a little restaurant in Old Compton Street, the Au Petit Riche,
with the outside of which I was acquainted for some years before I
put foot inside it. It so evidently kept itself to itself that I felt
that my presence might be resented. It has little casemented windows
in white frames, and inside the windows are muslin curtains, on a
rail, hung sufficiently high to prevent anyone from looking over them.
Below the windows are green tiles, and above it a stretch of little
panes of bottle-glass in white frames to give additional light to the
rooms inside. A little ground-glass lantern hung outside the door, and
the name of the restaurant was painted over the window, but there was
no bill of fare put up outside, no attempt to draw in a diner unless
he had made up his mind to dine at the Au Petit Riche and nowhere
else. I had been told all about the restaurant by those gallant souls
who experiment at every new eating-place that springs up between
Shaftesbury Avenue and Oxford Street, and though all I heard about the
little place was pleasant and interested me, I felt that the Petit
Riche was not anxious to make my acquaintance. But when the Petit Riche
put up outside its windows an illuminated sign and its number, 44, in
big figures, I felt that it had abandoned its haughty reserve and was
beckoning to me, and the rest of London, to come in. And in I went, and
have been going in at intervals ever since, for the little restaurant
is artistic and French and amusing.
When you open the glazed door and go in you are faced by the question:
"On the level or down below?" A door to the right leads into the little
series of rooms on the ground floor, and a flight of stairs plunges
down into the basement. Come, first of all, through the door to the
right. We are in the first of three little rooms, with light-coloured
walls. A row of small tables is on either side of each room, and in the
first room a white desk, with palms on it, faces towards the door. A
score of pretty little French waitresses, Bretonnes all, in white and
black, are bustling about, and Mademoiselle, if she is not sitting at
the white desk, will probably receive you at the door and smile and
pilot you to a table. And I should, before going any further, explain
to you who Mademoiselle is, and tell you the story of the Au Petit
Riche. A good Breton and his wife came to London and established a
little restaurant in Old Compton Street, and with them came their two
very pretty daughters. And they made the Au Petit Riche a corner of
Brittany in London. The chef, who had graduated at the Escargot d'Or,
a big bourgeois house near the Halles in Paris, is a Breton by birth,
and all the merry little waitresses are from Brittany. The elder of
the two daughters married a young journalist and for a while left the
restaurant, but when her father and mother thought that the time had
come for them to retire, she and her husband took up the management of
the restaurant, with her sister to help them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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