The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
It adds to the pleasure of dining at Verrey's to be known and to be
recognised by the old servants who have been in the restaurant as long
as I can remember it. There is an old head waiter, a fine specimen of
a Briton--portly, with little side whiskers, dignified and unhurrying,
who might have stood as a model for that Robert whose wit and wisdom
used to enliven the pages of _Punch_, who always remembers my name and
all my gastronomic history. And the head waiter in the café, who now
has a full head of grey hair, I remember when he first came to Verrey's
a youth with the blackest of black hair. Mr Stadelmaier, though he
looks on the right side of forty, remembers how young Mr George Krehl,
in the days of his father's rule, one day took me out into the yard
at the back of the house to show me his dogs and the kitchen which
looks out on to this open space, and the last time I dined at Verrey's
brought me in from the yard, to look at a delightful little Samoyede
puppy, looking like one of the woolly toy dogs in the shops, for he
too, like Mr George Krehl the younger, is a breeder of prize dogs, and
has established a club for the owners of sleigh dogs.
Mr Stadelmaier has now left Verrey's and is manager of Kettner's.
The patrons of Verrey's at dinner-time are some of them grey-headed,
for I am sure that all its old patrons always return to their first
love; but there are young couples as well, and the restaurant, though
it is quiet, is by no means dull. It has this distinction, rare amongst
modern restaurants, that it has never surrendered to the modern craze
for music during meals, and it is possible to talk to a neighbour at
the dinner-table without raising one's voice to a shout. I fancy that
Mr Albert Krehl, the survivor of the two sons of old Mr George Krehl,
would as soon think of introducing gipsy music into the restaurant as
they would of engaging Tango dancers to do "the Scissors" in and out of
the tables.
Verrey's has so far acknowledged the tendencies of to-day towards a
_table d'hôte_ dinner that it offers its patrons, if they wish it, a
dinner at seven-and-six. But it is true to its old traditions in that
although it offers this dinner, no dish of the dinner is cooked until
the order has been given, and it is practically a dinner _à la carte_
selected for the diner at a settled price. This is the menu of one of
these dinners:
Hors d'œuvre Variés.
Consommé Duchesse.
Crème de Volaille.
Suprême de Sole Regina.
Filet de Bœuf Jussieuse.
Pommes Château.
Faisan rôti.
Salade d'Endive.
Celeri braisé au jus.
Parfait de Vanille.
Friandises.
Croûte Baron.
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