The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
But to eat a dinner ordered by somebody else, because I am too lazy to
order it myself, is to me just as unsporting as it is to land a fish
that somebody else has hooked, so that when I dine at Verrey's I pay M.
Schellenberg, the _chef de cuisine_, who is an Alsatian, the compliment
of giving careful consideration as to which of his _plats_ I shall
order, and I generally like to include in my dinner some of Verrey's
specialities, of which there are quite a number. The last time I dined
there I was given an excellent _bortsch_ soup, one-and-three--it is the
custom at Verrey's to charge for a half-portion, which is ample for one
person, a little more than half what is charged for a whole portion,
which suffices for two; _sole à la Verrey_, a filleted sole with an
admirable sauce, which is one of the secrets of the house, but in which
the taste of ketchup is discernible, two shillings; and a _soufflé
Palmyre_, two shillings. This with a pint of good claret was a dinner
not to be despised.
I asked Mr Stadelmaier whether the Queen's Hall and the Palladium,
two neighbouring places of music and entertainment, had brought the
restaurant many customers. The concerts at the Queen's Hall, he told
me, had done so, and he said that people going to the Palladium, when
it gave a one-house variety entertainment, used often to dine at
Verrey's, but that its present "two houses a night" policy did not send
diners to the restaurant.
There is an abundance of history behind Verrey's, and if a careful
record had been kept of the great dinners given in the rooms on the
first floor, such a record as the Café Anglais in Paris kept, it would
make very interesting reading. One of the merriest dinners probably
ever given in those upper rooms was the one at the time of the late
Victorian revival of road coaching, at which most of the guests were
well-known whips. Every man at this dinner was presented with a pink
waistcoat, and as after dinner most of the men went on either to
music halls or theatres, the appearance in the boxes of the young
bloods wearing pink waistcoats astonished the audiences, who thought
that a new fashion was being set. A quieter dinner, but an even more
distinguished one, was that at which King Edward, when he was Prince of
Wales, was present. This was its menu:
Œufs à la Ravigote.
(Vodkhi.)
Bisque d'écrevisses. Consommé Okra.
Rougets à la Muscovite.
Selle de mouton de Galles.
Haricots panachés. Tomates au gratin.
Pommes soufflées.
Timbale Lucullus.
Fonds d'artichauts. Crème pistache.
Grouse.
Salad Rachel.
Biscuit glacé à la Verrey.
Soufflé de laitances.
Dessert.
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