The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Messengers from half the bungalows in the leafy lanes of Penang were
sent off post-haste to the civil surgeon, begging him to come at once
to the bedside of unhappy sufferers, and each messenger as he arrived
at the civil surgeon's house received the news that the doctor believed
himself to be in the throes of the same dread Asiatic disease, and did
not think that he would survive the dawn. Nobody, however, did die,
and two or three days later all the aristocracy of Penang, looking
even paler than Europeans always are in that land of lily-white
complexions, and very shaky about the knees, gathered together at a
cricket match and discussed the matter. Somebody had already gone to
the Chinese merchant and had told him of the havoc that his banquet had
made. He was profoundly grieved, pointed out that none of his Chinese
guests had suffered the slightest inconvenience, and laid the blame
on the European dishes, which he had procured as a compliment to his
white guests, saying that he "always mistrusted the cookery of the
barbarians."
The other unforgettable feast was given by the head Shroff, the native
cashier, of one of the banks in Hong-Kong. I had been talking at the
house of one of the bankers as to my experiences of Chinese dishes,
and had rather decried the cookery of the Flowery Land. I had (I
was afterwards told) been especially sarcastic as to the Chinaman's
partiality for puppy-dog, and more or less ranked all Chinese dishes
with the detestable rat soup which a Chinaman sold in the early
mornings just outside the barrack gates to the coolies on their way to
their work. The orderly officer going to inspect rations always had to
pass the unsavoury cauldron from which the soup was ladled out, and,
in the hot weather, the only thing to do was to put a handkerchief to
one's nose and run past it.
Some little time after these conversational flourishes of mine the
banker asked me if I would like to eat a real, well-cooked Chinese
dinner, for the head Shroff of his bank had asked him to honour him
with his company at his villa in Kowlun--which is where the "Mr Wu's"
come from--and had told him that he would be delighted if he would
bring some of his European friends. The dinner, which consisted chiefly
of fish, was an excellent one, the all-pervading taste of soy not being
too persistent, and I was especially delighted with a white stew of
what my host said was Cantonese rabbit, which I thought quite the
most tender and the fattest rabbit I had ever tasted. When the dinner
was over, the banker told me that the "Cantonese rabbit" to which I
had given such unlimited praise was really a Cantonese edible puppy,
fattened on milk and rice. After that incident I found that whenever
I dined out in Hong-Kong, conversation always seemed to turn on to
Cantonese puppies, and I was gently chaffed for at least six months as
to my sudden conversion to the delights of baby chow as a _pièce de
résistance_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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