The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
I fancy that there must have been a good deal of the Italian combative
spirit in old M. Monico, for he seems to have been at loggerheads with
more than one of his neighbours. To-day, when you have gone in under
the glass canopy with two gables which protects the Piccadilly Circus
entrance, when you have passed the little stall for the sale of foreign
newspapers and have come into the café which acts as an ante-room to
the great gilded saloon, you will notice that part of this café has a
solid ceiling and that the other half is glazed over. The glazed-over
portion was, in old M. Monico's time, an open space, and into this open
space a neighbour, a perfumer, had the right to bring carts and horses
in the course of his business. This right the perfumer exercised on
occasion, to the great annoyance of M. Monico, and the present Messrs
Monico recall with a smile how the perfumer would often bring in a
great van with two horses to deliver a couple of small packages that
any messenger boy could have carried.
The clearing away of a block of houses when Piccadilly Circus was given
its present proportions gave the Monico its entrance on to that centre,
and when Shaftesbury Avenue was driven through the network of small
streets in Soho, M. Monico and his sons obtained a second frontage for
their restaurant and built the block which contains the grill-room,
the buffet and banqueting-rooms, now topped by the new masonic temple,
the latest addition to the Monico.
The Monico of to-day is one of those great bee-hives of dining-rooms
that cater for every class of diner. It has its little café and its
big _à la carte_ dining-saloon, its grill-room, its banqueting-rooms
and its German beer cellar down in the basement. It has two marble
staircases, one leading down to Piccadilly Circus and one to
Shaftesbury Avenue, and its big saloon, the original café, is as
gorgeous a hall as gilding can make it. Its walls are of gold and
mirrors and raised ornamentation, with the windows high up, and with
a golden balcony for the musicians. It has a gilded ceiling and its
pilasters are also golden. An orchestra plays in this room, whereas
in the grill-room those who like their meals without orchestral
accompaniment can eat them in peace. Up and down the great gilded
room walk four _maîtres d'hôtel_ in frock-coats and black ties, and
a battalion of waiters are busy running from tables to kitchen. The
bill of fare in the gilded chamber is a most comprehensive one, and
any man of any nationality can find some of the dishes of his country
on it. It is a beer restaurant as well as a wine restaurant, and the
simplest possible meal, very well cooked, can be eaten there as well as
elaborate feasts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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