The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The grill-room is less gorgeous in its decorations, though its buff
marble pillars and walls are handsome enough. It is in this room
that the _table d'hôte_ dinners at half-a-crown and three-and-six
are served, and it is here that many men of business feed, and feed
excellently well. Not many days ago I lunched in the grill-room, my
host being a gourmet who knew all the resources of the establishment,
and I enjoyed the _sole Monico_, a sole with an excellent white sauce;
a woodcock _flambé_ and a salad of tender lettuce which, like the
beautiful peaches with which we finished our repast, must have been
grown in some Southern, sunshiny clime. I also enjoyed the cheese
_fondue_, made, I think, from the _recette_ that Brillat Savarin set
down in his "Physiologie du Goût."
The Monico has gained special celebrity for its banquets, and the
requests for dates for such feasts made to the Messrs Monico have been
so overwhelming that they have turned the Renaissance Saloon, which
used to be devoted to a _table d'hôte_ dinner, into a banqueting-room,
and have redecorated it for its new uses.
It remains in my memory that men who were present at the banquet
given to Lord Milner in the International Hall of the Monico before
he left England to take up his duties as Pro-Consul in South Africa,
and who talked to me afterwards of the feast, told me that it was
the best public dinner, best served and best cooked, that they had
ever eaten, and last year, when I dined at the Poincaré dinner of
the Ligue des Gourmands, which was held in the Renaissance Room (the
occasion on which M. Escoffier's "creation" of the _poulet Poincaré_
was first disclosed to a discriminating gathering), I thought then
that M. Sieffert's (the _chef_) handiwork was worthy of all the praise
lavished on it, and that M. G. Ramoni, the manager, had arranged most
admirably all the details of the banquet. The Renaissance Room now
quite justifies its title, for its decoration of peacock blue panels
and frames of gilded briar, with strange birds perched on the sprays,
somewhat suggests Burne-Jones and the colouring of his school.
As a specimen of a Monico banquet I cannot do better than give you one
eaten by that famous Kentish cricketing club, the Band of Brothers, the
menu of whose dinner bears their badge in dark and light blue, and has
also a bow of their ribbon:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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