The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
There is a romance in the history of most restaurants that have existed
for any length of time, and the rise of the Café Royal from small
beginnings is interwoven with the Franco-Prussian War and with the rise
and destruction of the Commune. On 11th February 1865 M. Daniel Nicols,
who had been in the wine trade at Bercy, that part of Paris where the
great wine depots are, opened a modest little café-restaurant in the
lower part of Regent Street. It occupied the space where the entrance
and hall now are. A photograph of the front of the house at that time
is extant, showing the plate-glass window with a broad brass band below
it, and on the glass in white letters announcements of the good things
to be found within. In front of the modest doorway stands M. Nicols,
looking very proud of his establishment, while two of his friends lean
gracefully against the pilasters of the entrance, and the head waiter
stands respectfully a step or two farther back. On the little balcony
before the windows of the entresol stand the ladies of M. Nicols'
family. The interior of the window was in those days decked with
salads and with any foods that looked tempting, to catch the attention
of the passer-by. In fact, it was just such an unpretentious little
restaurant as any young foreigner coming to London and determined
to make a competence might start nowadays hoping that Fortune would
turn her wheel in his direction. But most young foreigners do not
have the chance, or the judgment, to establish themselves in Regent
Street. I have a dim memory when I was a schoolboy of being impressed
by some stuffed pheasants in the Café Royal window, and at the time
of the great war I was first taken inside it to meet there a distant
connection of my family, a Buonapartist, who had been one of the
Empress's ministers during the short period when the Government of
France fell into her hands and had gone into exile when the Republic
was proclaimed. Those are my first two recollections of the Café Royal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account