The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
In the great gilded cage of the restaurant and the big room the windows
of which open on to Glasshouse Street, the custom is to eat the lunch
of the day, or to select dishes from it, while dinner is an _à la
carte_ meal. If one entertains a lady at dinner one probably orders a
dinner which canters through the accepted courses, and I have by me the
menu of such a one:
Hors d'œuvre Russe.
Pot-au-feu.
Sole Waleska.
Noisette d'agneau Lavallière.
Haricots verts à l'Anglaise.
Parfait de foie gras.
Caille en cocotte.
Salade.
Pôle Nord.
And with this dinner we drank a good bottle of St Marceaux.
But men when they dine together think little of the rightful sequence
of courses, and order what their taste prompts them to eat. I have
dined at the Café Royal, and dined well on _moules Marinières_--and
one can eat _moules_ at the Café without fear, half a cold grouse, a
salad and a _petit Suisse_ cheese. When the ham is a dish of the day it
always tempts me, for the Café Royal hams are princes of their kind,
and the cold _mousses_ that the _chef de cuisine_, M. François Maître,
makes are beautifully light. The specialities of the cuisine of the
Café Royal are _œufs Magenta, œufs Wallace, homard Thérmidor, sole
Beaumanoir, filet de sole Simone, darne de saumon à l'Ecossaise, truite
Dartois, turbotin Paysanne, poularde bisque, faisan Carême, perdreau à
la Royal, caille Châtelaine, poulet sauté Sigurd, suprême de volaille à
la Patti, tournedos Figaro, noisette de pré salé moderne, côte d'agneau
Sultane, filet de bœuf Cambacères, selle d'agneau favorite._
Down in the café a _table d'hôte_ meal is served, wonderful value
for very few shillings, but I am not smoke-proof, and I like eating
my meals without the taste and smell of tobacco added to them. The
grill-room is always full, and perhaps more solid eating, of juicy
fillets and grilled chops and cutlets, is done there than anywhere else
in the house, except in the banqueting-rooms. I have banqueted with
the Bons Frères, a club of cheery connoisseurs who like their dinner
to be light and the songs that follow it also to be airy, in the great
gilded banqueting-room with, as part of its decoration, many crowned
N's, which might stand for Napoleon, but really indicate Nicols; I
have dined in smaller rooms with the Foxhunters' Lodge, and with many
other groups of good Freemasons and good diners; I have assisted at "Au
Revoir" banquets without number, and I know when I am bidden to feast
in a private room at the Café Royal that I shall be given a good dinner
on sound if perhaps conservative lines. This menu of a banquet given
not long since, which is typical, will convey more what I mean than
many words of description:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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