The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
so there is no injury to redress.
All this, I know, should be reserved for my autobiography; but as I am
never likely to autobiograph myself it has to be set down here.
And now to talk of some of the oyster-houses of London. If on the "Roof
of the World," the great tableland of Thibet, one British explorer met
another British explorer, and the first man suddenly said "Scott's!"
the second man inevitably would answer "Oysters," for Scott's window at
the top of the Haymarket, with its little barrels of oysters and its
crimson lobsters reposing on beds of salad stuff, and its big crabs
lying on their backs and folding their vandyke-brown claws, as if in
pious meditation, over their buff stomachs, is one of the landmarks of
London. The old Scott's, before the fire that gutted it, has faded from
the memory of most Londoners, and the new building, with its pillars,
which are apparently of mother-o'-pearl pressed into black marble,
with bands of ornamental brass about them, and its red blinds and
red-shaded lamps in the upper storeys, is accepted as being the hub of
the West End of London, just as the old one was. Inside the doors are
the two marble-topped counters with piles of plates upon them, and on
their fronts long napkins hanging from rails. Behind the counters men
in white jackets are busy opening oysters and pouring out tumblers of
stout and glasses of Chablis all day long. There are on the counters
stacks of thin slices of brown bread and butter and other stacks of
sandwiches of various kinds of fish and plates of prawns of coral-pink.
I know of no better place than this wide oyster hall of Scott's for a
theatre-goer to eat a very light meal before going early to a theatre
when he intends to sup luxuriously after the show. Scott's, though
its shell-fish are its trump cards, desires to be all things to all
men, and to all women. It possesses a "dive" in its basement with tiled
walls, on which Japanese fish swim in and out through Japanesy weeds,
and behind the oyster hall is the grill-room, shut off from draughts by
a great glass screen, in which a white-clothed cook stands with a table
of viands at his elbow, turning the chops and steaks, sausages and
rashers on the big grill. Upstairs there is an _à la carte_ restaurant,
where all kinds of luxuries are obtainable, and Scott's is a very
popular place at which to sup after the theatre.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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