The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Lord Dudley loved a turbot, but other judges of good British dinners
sometimes give the preference to cod. Walker, of "Original" fame, gave
a Christmas Day dinner to two friends, and the fare he provided for
them was: crimped cod, a woodcock a man, and plum pudding. One of the
most typical British dinners I have eaten was that which a gallant
colonel, who very worthily filled the mayoral chair at Westminster,
used to give annually at the Cavour Restaurant. It consisted of
a large turbot, a sucking-pig nicely roasted, and apple pudding.
Roast sucking-pig is a dinner dish better understood in England than
anywhere else in the world, except, perhaps, in China. When the Duke of
Cambridge, brother of George the Fourth, was entertained in princely
fashion at Belvoir, and was shown the menu of a dinner on which a great
French chef had exhausted all his inventiveness, and was asked if there
were any dishes not included in the feast for which he had a fancy,
answered that he would like some roast pig and an apple dumpling, both
good British dishes. His son, the Commander-in-Chief of our days, also
had a liking for pork, and, at one time, word went round the British
army that at inspection lunches it was wise to give his Royal Highness
pork chops. Of course, the British army overdid it, and the old Duke
had so many pork chops put before him in the course of a year that
at last their presence on the menu was far more likely to assist in
the securing of an unfavourable report on a regiment than was their
absence. Gravy soup, a grilled sole, a boiled hen pheasant stuffed with
oysters, and an open tart formed the favourite dinner of a renowned
gourmet of my acquaintance.
Of the made dishes that belong to British cookery, jugged hare, I
think, has the leading place. Yorkshire pudding is as British as
Stonehenge is, and mince pies can claim to be to-day exactly what
they were when the Puritans used to preach against them. Marrow bones
and Welsh rarebits, buck rarebits, and stewed tripe and onions are
old British supper dishes, but the early closing laws have killed the
old-fashioned British supper in eating-houses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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