The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Stone's in Panton Street, which dates back to 1770, is another
chop-house, though it is better known as a wine-house. It has its
coffee-room, where good, plain grilled food is obtainable, though it
rather sinks the title "chop-house" in the more aristocratic "_à la
carte_ restaurant." Stone's has always been a favourite resort of men
of the theatre.
Not very many Londoners know of the Sceptre Chop-house, Number 5
Warwick Street, a little street which runs parallel, on the east, to
part of Regent Street, for it is not in a main thoroughfare. It is
a typical early Victorian chop-house, and it used to be a haunt of
Charles Dickens when he was making his first successes as an author.
The front of the house has been newly painted, but the interior remains
as it was in 1830, when it first opened its door. Its window is frosted
half-way up to obviate the necessity for blinds, with a pattern and
announcements that the house supplies chops and coffee left in plain
glass amidst the frosting. I warrant that window created considerable
enthusiasm in Warwick Street in 1830. At least three of the
proprietors, past and present, of the Sceptre have their names recorded
on the front of the building. Sanders' name is almost obliterated on
the length of brass that forms the window-sill, and shows faintly on
the glass of the door. Gosling is preserved to memory by his name in
gold letters over the door, while Purcell's is very large above the
window. Inside, the long room is a harmony of quiet colours. There
is brown boarding half-way up the walls, and above that green that
rests the eye. By the door is an enclosed cosy corner, with a mirror
in an old black frame over the fireplace. All down the room are low
mahogany partitions with seats cushioned in black. The tables are of
mahogany, polished by constant rubbing of the waitresses' napkins, and
no tablecloths ever hide the deep colour of the old wood. At the end of
the room is a screen of three arches of dark wood. The two side arches
are filled with panelling and mirrors; but through the centre arch can
be seen the kitchen with its sawdusted floor, its ranges of plates
and dishes, and the cook and the cookmaids in print dresses going
about their work. The waitresses in black dresses and white aprons
and caps bustle up and down the room and in and out of the kitchen. A
stove heats the long room, and glazing in the roof gives it light. A
staircase of black wood leads to the upper rooms, and by the doorway
into the street is a little compartment, no larger than a sentry-box,
which is the pay-desk.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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