The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The food at The Sceptre is of the simplest kind, and a haricot chop or
roast chicken are about its highest flights. Your soup, mutton broth,
or mock turtle or kidney costs you 4d. or 6d., according to the size
of the soup plate. You can pay 9d. or 10d. for your chop and 10d. for
your steak. A cut from the joint, for The Sceptre gives you a choice of
three joints, is a 9d. matter; but you can get a very ample helping of
apple tart for 3d. It is under the heading of entrées that The Sceptre
puts such high flights of cookery as curried mutton and rice, boiled
tripe and onions, Irish pie and mixed grill.
Many men distinguished in art and music and literature have felt, and
still feel, the fascination of The Sceptre Chop-house. You may, very
likely, amongst the company at the old mahogany tables, see one of the
brightest writers on _Punch_, or our greatest living painter of battle
pictures, or the man who composed "In the Shadows."
Upstairs are two delightful old rooms, browned by time and the London
climate, with old wooden shelves, old clocks, old brass candlesticks,
old chairs and tables. In one corner of the front room, by a window,
stands Dickens' chair, for it is here, so the tradition of the house
has it, that Dickens used to come in his early days to write, and it
was in this corner that many of his "Sketches by Boz" were jotted down
on paper. The Sceptre was a spruce, new little house at this period of
Dickens' life, and probability as well as tradition is on the side of
its having been one of his early haunts.
XVI
SOME GRILL-ROOMS
The modern grill-room we owe, I think, to the Americans, for the
travelling American, who has his own very sensible ideas as to what
comfort is, does not wish every night of his life to attire himself in
a "claw-hammer" evening coat, but he feels that without that garment
he would be out of place in the restaurant of any of the fashionable
hotels. The grill-room gives him an excellent dinner, just as long or
just as short as he likes, served quickly, in luxurious surroundings,
and he can dress as he likes, to eat it. An American always knows what
he wants, asks for it, and keeps on asking until he gets it. Quite a
number of Britons of both sexes wanted all the conveniences of the
grill-rooms long before the modern grill-room came into existence.
(Hard-working men of business who had not time to go home to the
suburbs to change their clothes, men of the theatre, authors and
managers who work late in the evening, actors and actresses who like
a very light meal before going to the theatre, and to sup after their
work without wearing gorgeous raiment, and a host of other people who
get their living by their brains.) But they had not the pertinacity of
the American in demanding what they wanted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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