The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The Carlton grill, which has its own entrance in the Haymarket, is
as good a specimen of the grill-room of to-day as one could select to
show to anyone who wished to understand the differences between the
chop-houses of yesterday and the grill-rooms of to-day. The staircase
which leads down to it is oak-panelled. In the little ante-chamber
where hats and coats are given up there is a newspaper stall, and in
another ante-room are easy-chairs, dark green in colour, and small
tables with tops of burnished copper. The grill-room itself is all
white, little pilasters breaking the smooth sides of the walls. Blue
china stands on the shelves, a Cromwell clock ticks on a bracket, and
at one side of the room are arched recesses with stained glass windows
at the back of them. The lights in the electroliers burn here day and
night, but the atmosphere is never stuffy. A glass screen keeps the
heat of the grill from the room, and in front of this screen are piles
of crimson tomatoes, and chops and steaks of deeper red, and mushrooms
yellow, grey and warm brown, a harmony in reds and greys. Its _carte
du jour_ is all-embracing, and some of the dishes are always ready. M.
Ventura is the presiding spirit in this grill-room. He knows the tastes
of his clientele and which tables they prefer, and when there are no
unoccupied tables and people have to be turned away, as sometimes
happens, or asked to wait in the ante-room until tables are free, his
grief is really heartfelt.
At the very gateway of the Strand the Grand Hotel has a popular
grill-room, walled with shining tiles of white and buff; the Cecil has
a great Indian room of blue and yellow tiles; and, indeed, every big
hotel from the great pile of the Kensington Palace, in the west, to the
hotel of the Great Eastern Railway in Liverpool Street in the east, has
its grill-room, the simplicity of the fare and the fact that the raw
material is always on view to the diner before it is placed on the
grill being a guarantee of the quality of the meat.
Most of the restaurants also have their grills.
Romano's turned its old kitchen into a reproduction of a room in a
Russian farmhouse with horns on the walls and an icon up in a corner,
and even at one time carried realism to the point of putting the
waiters in this part of the establishment into white blouses with red
sashes at the waist, the dress the Tartar waiters in Moscow wear. You
get the restaurant food in this grill-room at about half the restaurant
prices. A new electric grill has been installed in this Russian room
which grills just as well and far more quickly than a charcoal or a
coal grill.
The Frascati, in Oxford Street, has a grill-room on the ground floor
with walls of white marble veined with grey, and with mirrors in
Oriental frames; and at the entrance to Tottenham Court Road the
Horseshoe has an excellent grill above its oyster saloon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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