The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The Holborn shows originality in devoting a grill-room to ladies,
and in the old Freemasons' Tavern in Great Queen Street, which now
calls itself the Connaught Rooms, there is in the basement a large
grill-room, with a choice of three joints at luncheon time as well as
an extensive _carte du jour_, a grill which is much patronised by the
lawyers from Lincoln's Inn Fields. In the evening a dinner is served
in a smaller room, and I have dined there before going across the way
to the Kingsway Theatre. Those who dine are, I think, mostly connected
in some way or another with Freemasonry, and the talk that goes on at
the tables has reference to high offices in the Craft and Mark, to
"raising" and "passing," and to that ancient and sacred ritual which
ladies still believe to be in some way connected with a red-hot poker.
XVII
ROMANO'S
Alfonso Nicolino Romano, a head waiter at the Café Royal, in 1874
bought with his savings a small fried fish shop in the Strand,
converted it into a bar and restaurant, and in addition to his own
name on its front added Café Vaudeville, for it was, and is, almost
next door to the Vaudeville Theatre. Romano's in those days possessed
a central window flanked by two doors, one leading into the bar and
the other to the rooms above. In the window as an ornament was a small
aquarium which contained goldfish, and those fish must have lived
exciting, if short, lives, for the patrons of the bar tried to feed
them with cigar ash, lemon rind, burnt almonds, and torn-up notepaper,
and it is even said that "Hughie" Drummond, one of the most amusing and
most reckless of the clean-shirted Bohemians who made "the Roman's"
known all the world over, tried to take a swim with them.
Romano was a curly-haired, humorous, quick-witted little Italian who
talked a strange Anglo-Italian jargon--"Pore ole Romano e got badda
addick this morning" his usual morning greeting, was an example of
it--and who was on the easiest terms of familiarity with most of his
clients without ever overstepping the line. He had not very many
rules as to the conduct of his business, but one from which he never
departed was that he would under no circumstances make a reduction
in the total of a bill. He would give an aggrieved customer some of
the very best "cognac" of the house or split a bottle of the most
expensive champagne with him or ask him to dinner next day, but what
he would not do was to reduce any item in the account. One of the
most frequent forms of verbal invitation given by "The Roman" was to
a Sunday midday inspection of his cellars in the Adelphi arches. "You
coma see my cellars, Mister So-and-So Eskwire, best in London" was the
actual wording. Romano had come from a good school, and he laid down an
excellent cellar. The food in the restaurant was also beyond reproach.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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