The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Between the Gaiety Theatre and Romano's there grew up an indefinite
alliance, and golden-hearted Nellie Farren would lunch there when a new
burlesque was in rehearsal, and "the Child" and dear "Jack" St John
and others of the principals looked with favour on the restaurant, and
on Lord Mayors' days made a brave show of beauty at the windows of the
first floor. The Gaiety Girls of those days, splendid women and jolly
good fellows, who enjoyed life, and by their beauty and sociability
helped other people to enjoy life, lunched and supped at the Roman's.
I have a dozen names at the tip of my pen, but if I wrote them down I
should stray into a gossip over the ladies of the burlesque and light
opera stages in the seventies and eighties, and should require columns
and columns of space to deal adequately with such a subject. Most
of them married, and, as the fairy tales have it, "lived happy ever
after." And the "halls," we didn't call them variety theatres then,
were also represented at the Roman's. Jolly, humorous Bessie Bellwood
lunched there five days out of six, though she kept the Roman humble
by asserting that she preferred the tripe and onions at Chick's to
anything his kitchen could produce, and when she was in good anecdotal
form kept everybody near her tremulous with laughter. And the sisters
Leamar, who used to sing a duet as to Romano's being "a paradise, sure,
in the Strand" and added the information that "the wines and the women
are grand," naturally paid frequent visits to the restaurant to assure
themselves that the description was a correct one.
The Roman gathered about him a staff which exactly suited the tone of
the restaurant, proof thereof being that so many of them remain in
its service to this day. M. Luigi Naintre, the manager of Romano's,
has climbed the ladder of promotion steadily through all the grades
at the restaurant, and though for a while after Romano's death he
wandered into other folds, one of the first acts of the company which
now controls the restaurant was to ask him to come back to it. Long
experience has taught him the art of making each frequenter of the
restaurant believe that the establishment is maintained entirely to
meet his or her taste and whims, and he is essentially the right man in
the right place. M. Minola, his second in command, also graduated in
the "Roman" school. The cellarman, L. Bendi, and the wine-butler, L.
Villa, have been in the restaurant as far back as I can remember.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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