The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
I must pass quickly over the fire which burned down the old Romano's
and its rebuilding on the site of the old restaurant and on that of
another house next door. The panelled hall and, in the restaurant, the
Moorish arches with the pictures of the Bosphorus seen through them
were features of the new building, and remain to-day as they then were.
In the nineties Romano died of pneumonia, contracted by standing one
cold winter day outside the restaurant door with no great-coat on, and
the restaurant came under the Court of Chancery.
The Court of Chancery was not at all sorry to hand over its duties to
a company, with Mr Walter Pallant, the then chairman of the Gaiety
Company, as its chairman, which was formed to purchase the restaurant.
Mr "Teddy" Bayly, who as a patron of the restaurant had helped
materially in making the fortune of the Roman, became manager, and
Luigi was appointed as second in command. When Mr Bayly left Romano's
for a restaurant of his very own M. Luigi mounted one rung more of the
ladder of promotion and was appointed manager.
The first business of the company, after giving the building "a wash
and brush up," was to find a chef of celebrity and experience to take
charge of the kitchens. They found in M. Ferrario exactly the man for
whom they were looking. M. Ferrario had learned his art under M. Coste
in the kitchens of the Cecil, and when he himself became the commander
of the kitchens of a restaurant of the first class he showed that he
had used his powers of observation, that not only did he know all that
there was to be learned concerning the _haute cuisine française_,
but that he had an open mind with regard to the cookery of all other
nations. The _mouzakkas_ that M. Ferrario sends from his kitchen are
the best I have eaten outside Bucharest. He makes a ground-nut soup,
the one delicacy that Nigeria has added to the cookery book, quite
admirably, and Romano's is the only restaurant that I know of in Europe
where one can eat a Malay curry cooked as it is cooked in Malaya and
served in the Malay fashion, with sambals and with shining Malayan
shell spoons for the rice. What substitute M. Ferrario has found for
the fresh cocoa-nut pulp which is the foundation of all Malay curries
I do not know, but he has found something which replaces it admirably.
In the winter at lunch-time north countrymen say that Romano's
Lancashire hot-pot is the real thing, and there is another British
luncheon dish, gipsy-pot, which I eat at Romano's, a savoury stew of
chicken and cabbage and other vegetables and other meats, which I find
exceptionally good.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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