The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
When at the height of his fame and prosperity M. Kettner died and left
a widow, and Madame Kettner, when her days of mourning had passed,
married M. Giovanni Sangiorgi, who also became her partner in the
business, a kindly man who keeps a watchful eye on the restaurant which
is now controlled by a company. The restaurant was in comparatively
late years rebuilt and an entrance hall given to it, and the two rooms
to the right of the hall were in 1913 very tastefully redecorated,
but it still retains its characteristic of being several small houses
joined together. The first sight that greets one's eyes on entering the
hall is a view of the kitchen, generally with a cook in white clothing
busy about his work as the centre of the picture, and those who lunch
and dine are, as of yore, asked to walk through the white-tiled,
beautifully clean domain of the chef. A grill-room now forms part
of the establishment, and the character of the meals is changed in
that _table d'hôte_ dinners at various prices are the trump cards of
the establishment. I fancy that the propinquity of the Palace, of
the Shaftesbury Theatre, and now of the Ambassadors' may have had a
great deal to say to this change, for when I dine at Kettner's before
going to the Palace or the Shaftesbury I can see that most of my
fellow-guests are theatre-goers. A three-and-six _table d'hôte_ dinner
in the grill-room and five-shilling and seven-and-six ones in the
restaurant are the early evening meals of the establishment, and below
is quite a fair specimen of the menu of the five-shilling dinner. It
is the one I ate on the last occasion that I made a pilgrimage to see
Madame Pavlova dance. The quail was fat and tender, and the _crème
Victoria_ a good soup:
MENU
Hors d'œuvre.
Consommé Bortsch.
Crème Victoria.
Turbotin Bercy ou Blanchaille.
Poulet Poëlé Derby.
Côtelette de Mouton Maréchale.
Pommes Nouvelles.
Caille Rôtie.
Salade.
Glacé de Moka.
But Kettner's now has to encounter many rivals, for young men such
as Kettner himself was when he made the fame of his restaurant are
following his example, and all the Soho district bristles with little
restaurants which give wonderfully good food for the small prices
they charge. Kettner's will always, however, be famous for showing
its clients a spotlessly clean kitchen when such kitchens were the
exception, and this excellent custom and example it maintains to-day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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