The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The other noticeable restaurant of this group is one founded by M.
Roche, which bears in large letters on its front "Le Dîner Français,"
and which occupies the ground floor of No. 16 Old Compton Street.
A story I have been told of the origin of the restaurant is rather
picturesque. M. Roche was a baker and _pâtissier_, and one day two
Frenchmen came into his shop and asked where they could get a good
French meal. M. Roche replied that he and his family were about to
eat their midday meal, and that if the strangers from his native land
cared to join them he would be delighted. The two Frenchmen enjoyed
their midday meal so thoroughly that they asked to be allowed, during
their stay in London, to take all their meals at the bakery, paying
their share, and M. Roche's establishment gradually changed its
character, becoming a full-blown restaurant. That M. Roche served his
apprenticeship under Frederic at the Tour d'Argent in Paris does not
militate against the probability of this story. M. Roche, having made a
fortune in Old Compton Street, returned to France and bought an hotel
near Granville. _Le Dîner Français_, from which the establishment
takes its name, was always an eighteen-penny meal, and continued to
be so under the present proprietor, M. Béguinot, until the epidemic
of "lightning strikes" came in the spring of 1913, when, to cover
the extra expense entailed by giving cooks and waiters their weekly
holiday, the price was raised to one-and-nine. M. Roche always had the
reputation of buying the best material in the market, and M. Béguinot
has maintained this reputation. The restaurant at dinner-time is
generally filled to its holding capacity, and as many as four hundred
dinners are sometimes served on one evening. The restaurant is narrow,
but it runs far back, three rooms being thrown into one. The walls are
of cream colour, with a skirting of deep orange; the floor is covered
with oilcloth; the knives are black-handled, but cheapness in M.
Béguinot's establishment does not mean dirt, for everything is as clean
as clean can be, and the waiters, who all talk excellent English, wear
shirts and aprons as clean as the walls. Near the door in the first of
the rooms are two long tables, and at these any man who is by himself
takes a seat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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