Cape Cod (Mass.) -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Massachusetts -- Cape Cod
This is not a level, stable, protected kind of beach. It is steep,
full of long shoulders and curves, and fluctuates in outline not only
as a result of storms but with each tide and even with every wave,
making new bays, curves, shallow hills, and hollows; but the beach is
an interbalanced system. All its materials come from offshore or the
erosion of the cliffs. Wave action removes the cliff material, and
currents moving parallel to the shore take it both north and south:
there being a neutral point around Cahoon’s Hollow, halfway between
Highland Light and South Wellfleet, although its location is dependent
on the angle at which the waves come in along the shore. Half the cliff
material moves north to build up the hood at Provincetown, and half
moves south to be deposited along the sandspits from Nauset to Monomoy.
A study made by the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, under the
direction of John M. Zeigler, points out that the north and south ends
of the Cape terminate in fairly deep water, 205 feet off Race Point
and about fifty feet off Monomoy, and that: “It seems unlikely that
material is moved to the Outer Cape from deep water, either from north
and south, or by littoral drifting from any other part of the New
England coast. Drifted detritus would be trapped or obstructed many
times before it could reach the beaches of the Outer Cape.”
During the course of the same study beach profiles were measured for
several years and it was found that the sands were constantly changing
in elevation, all the way from several tenths of a foot in one place
during a mere ten minutes to a ten-foot loss in another during a period
of two days. The average change per tide was about four tenths of a
foot and sometimes went up to a foot.
The beach has a kind of rhythmic beat, up and down. If its changes were
translated into visual, continuous motion on a screen you might see it
dipping, rising, and undulating like the waves at sea. Turbulence and
change are not outside a frame of order. Loss is balanced by gain, so
that the sand which is taken from one part is added to another, and
though the relative volume of the beach is greatly reduced it may be
restored in a year or so to more or less its original size.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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