Cape Cod (Mass.) -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Massachusetts -- Cape Cod
Between the dunes and Provincetown there are a number of ponds, marshy
areas, and woodlands, including some good-sized stands of beech and
oak. These woods must have been considerably more extensive at one
time. In the dunes that now hang over them there are remnants, tree
trunks, and stubs protruding through the sand; and there is at least
one part of the dunes that seems to show evidence of a wood fire that
took up a big area, though when it occurred is not clear to me.
Thoreau wrote about the dead stubs of submerged forests projecting
above the surface of the sand in the “desert,” as he called it, and
of numerous little pools in the sand filled with fresh water “... all
that was left, probably of a pond or swamp.” He may have exaggerated
these pools as an indication of former ponds or marshland. They are
located a little above the water level which extends everywhere under
the dunes, and so are likely to be found at the bottom of the dune
troughs, or hollows between the dunes. Some of these pools, or fairly
long and narrow stretches of shallow water, may stay in much the same
place over a long period of time if the levels where they are located
are at least partially held down by vegetation. They are filled up by
rain water during fall and spring and then dry out during the summer
months, but where the dunes migrate before the wind, they also travel
behind one dune and before the next; and they are seldom deep enough to
develop typical swamp vegetation.
Thoreau tramped the area in 1849, and two hundred years earlier the
dune area on the town side of the “Hook” and possibly further must
have been much more circumscribed and held back. The early inhabitants
cut down all the trees they could find, for firewood; “try works” for
melting whale blubber; boats, houses, and salt works (in the days when
salt was produced by boiling sea water instead of the later refinement
of using solar heat to evaporate it).
Blowing sand became a threat to Provincetown and its harbor early in
its history. In his _Cape Cod; its people and their history_, Henry
Kittredge describes the war declared by the people of the town against
almost every stick, living or dead, that surrounded them.
“When the Mayflower band arrived,” he writes, “the sand hills to the
north were for the most part held stationary by trees and shrubs. But
from the earliest times the inhabitants, following the example of
visiting fishermen, fell upon the trees until the sand lay bare, a prey
to the four winds of heaven. The captains of fishing schooners were
allowed to take sand ballast from these hills, and not content with
this, the citizens turned their cattle loose to graze on what clumps of
vegetation still struggled for existence on the denuded hills, with the
result that the grass was demolished as fast as it grew. The sand was
free to blow down upon the unprotected village with every northwester,
threatening even to bury the houses.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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