Cape Cod (Mass.) -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Massachusetts -- Cape Cod
It is the nature of waves--and a tide is a wave of a special kind--to
move more slowly in crossing shallow water, rising at the same time to
a greater height. Waves expend the energy of their motion when they
increase in height, an effect which can be observed as they heap up
before breaking as surf on the beach. So the tidal wave moves in from
far offshore starting with relatively low ranges, some two or three
feet at Sable Island off Nova Scotia, with similar readings in Bermuda
and the Bahamas; but when it reaches the outer coast of the Cape it is
augmented. To the southwest of the Cape the increase is only moderate,
the figure for the entrance to Buzzards Bay being three and one half
feet; but moving north it gets much higher. To reach the shores of the
great embayment of the Gulf of Maine, formed where the coastline drops
away north and east of the Cape, the ocean’s tidal wave must first
cross the shallow waters of George’s Banks, a passage that requires
more than three hours (which explains the later time of high water in
the Bay). In the process the tidal height increases to the nine-foot
figure, a reading which is true of Provincetown, Plymouth, and on up
to the coast of Maine.
So the Cape lies between two tidal systems, created and separated by
its geography. On the south side, incidentally, there is a complex
pattern of tidal movement caused by the fact that both systems meet.
Tidal waves enter the sounds between the Cape and the islands of
Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket from two directions and pass each
other. The combined effect of this “interference” results in rapid
changes in the time and height of the tide between Monomoy and Woods
Hole. Off Nobska Point one tidal wave movement is high, while the other
passing it is low. Their interference results in the smallest range of
tide (one and a half feet) to be found along the south shore. A similar
minimum tidal range occurs off the southeast corner of Nantucket.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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