The Great Frozen Sea: A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert"Markham, Albert Hastings, Sir
History
The Great Frozen Sea: A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert"
Markham, Albert Hastings, Sir
Alert (Sloop : 1856-1895); Arctic regions; Nares, George S. (George Strong), 1831-1915
By the next morning we were through the Waigat Strait. Much to our
disappointment the weather remained thick, and we were in consequence
unable to gratify ourselves with a sight of the truly grand scenery to
be found at the mouth of the Omenak fiord, which possesses some of the
largest discharging glaciers in Greenland.
On the night of the 19th both vessels came to an anchor off the Danish
settlement of Proven.
The harbour, which is small, is formed by two islands. On the western
side of the easternmost of the two is situated the quaintest of quaint
little settlements. It consists of a neat little church, the Governor's
residence, the storehouse, boiling down establishment, smithy, about two
other wooden habitations, and some igdlus, or Eskimo huts. Of course it
boasts its flagstaff and battery of three guns. The Governor, who, in
his endeavour to be civil, had boarded us before anchoring, apologized
for not saluting, saying "that though he had the guns he had no
artillerists." Although it was midnight before we arrived, the
inhabitants were lining the side of the hill as we entered, the white
boots and fur jackets and short trousers of the women affording a very
novel though picturesque scene.
The dogs on shore, evidently annoyed at being disturbed in their
slumbers, set up a fearful howling, which, being answered by the dogs in
both ships, produced a most unpleasant and discordant concert. The
natives have a saying, when the dogs make this noise, "that they are
holding their parliament." This is hardly flattering to the Greenland
senate!
During our short stay at this place a rough survey of the harbour was
taken, and a number of scientific observations were made.
Nothing could be kinder or more friendly than the reception met with
from all on shore. In the Governor's good wife I recognized an old
acquaintance whom I had had the pleasure of meeting on a former occasion
during a cruise in a whaler to these regions.
Here also we succeeded in engaging the services of Hans Hendrik, an
Eskimo, as dog-driver and hunter. This man had been employed in the same
capacity in all the American expeditions to Smith's Sound, and was an
invaluable acquisition.
Our men enjoyed themselves every evening during our stay, dancing to
their hearts' content.
My black retriever, Nellie, was a great object of admiration amongst the
inhabitants, one man especially being very pertinacious in his request
that she might be presented to him. On inquiring to what use he would
put her, I was informed that my faithful companion would be converted
into food for the man's oily-faced family, whilst her beautiful black
curly coat would serve to adorn his wife's person. Nellie, I think, had
some notion of the designs on her life and skin, as in future she always
regarded with disfavour not only the Eskimos themselves, but also their
dogs and everything belonging to them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account