The Great Frozen Sea: A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert"Markham, Albert Hastings, Sir
History
The Great Frozen Sea: A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert"
Markham, Albert Hastings, Sir
Alert (Sloop : 1856-1895); Arctic regions; Nares, George S. (George Strong), 1831-1915
Shortly after leaving Cape Isabella the ice was observed stretching
across Baird Inlet--the fixed land ice with loose detached streams. As
we proceeded more ice was seen, which by degrees completely surrounded
us, and we only succeeded, after much boring and charging, in forcing a
way through, and into a well-protected little harbour to the southward
of Cape Sabine. This bay was formed by a deep indentation in the land
having a long jutting-out spit to the S.E. which acted as a famous
breakwater, and was protected seawards by Brevoort Island. Here we were
detained for five days, although several attempts were made to proceed,
which resulted in one instance in a hopeless besetment in the ice for
some hours. The pack was impenetrable; our only hope was to wait
patiently for a strong wind to open out a passage. The place was in
consequence called "Bide-a-wee" Harbour, subsequently changed to Payer
Harbour, after the distinguished Austrian Arctic explorer of that name.
During our detention the time of the officers was not unprofitably
spent. A rough survey of the place was made, its position was correctly
ascertained, a series of magnetic observations were obtained, and long
walks were taken in the neighbourhood, during which a large and rich
collection was made in the interests of geology and botany. No game of
any description was seen. Traces of Eskimo were discovered, but
evidently of an ancient date. They consisted of the remains of igdlus or
huts, also some bone spear-heads, and the runners and cross-bars of a
sledge.[1] Tidal observations were also taken in the harbour.
Here also, it may be said, we received our first lessons in the art of
sledging; for, wishing to be initiated into its mysteries, a party,
consisting of four officers and five men dragging one of our large
twenty-feet ice boats on a sledge, started to travel over the pack. Our
main object was of course to derive some practical experience in this
all-important mode of Arctic exploration, and in this, I think, we
succeeded.
We found the ice exceedingly hummocky, with narrow water spaces between,
_just_ too broad to admit of our jumping over, yet not sufficiently
wide to launch the boat into. So rough was the road that at one time the
bows of the boat would be seen rising almost perpendicularly in the air,
whilst all hands were engaged in long-standing pulls on the drag-ropes
to the tune of "one, two, three, haul;" at another time the sledge would
come down the side of a hummock with such rapidity as to give us hardly
time to spring out of the way to avoid the sledge and boat coming over
us, and many were the falls in consequence. It was, however, rare fun.
Once while launching the boat into a pool of water she nearly capsized;
as it was she half filled, and everything inside--provisions, clothes,
instruments, guns, and ammunition--was thoroughly saturated. A gold
watch that happened to be in a coat pocket was not improved by its
immersion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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