The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to EdinburghHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to Edinburgh
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
That Morpeth folk still cherish old anti-Scottish sayings is not at all
remarkable; for old manners, old sayings, and ancient hatreds die slowly
in such places as this, and moreover, the Morpeth of old suffered
terribly from Scottish raiders. Later times saw a more peaceful
irruption, when Scottish youths came afoot down the great road in quest
of fame and fortune in the south. People looked askance upon them as
Scots, while innkeepers hated them for their poverty and their canniness.
Those licensed victuallers thought, with Dr. Johnson, who did not greatly
like them either, that “the finest prospect for a Scotchman was the high
road that led him into England.” This bitter satire, by the way, was in
reply to a Mr. Ogilvie, who had been contending on behalf of the “great
many noble wild prospects” which Scotland contained. Smollett, in his
_Humphry Clinker_, shows how greatly the Scots were misliked along this
route about 1766. He says that, from Doncaster northwards, all the
windows of all the inns were scrawled with doggerel rhymes in abuse of
the Scottish nation. This fact was pointed out to that fine Scottish
character, Lismahago, and with it a particularly scurrilous epigram. He
read it with some difficulty, the glass being dirty, and with the most
starched composure.
“Vara terse and vara poignant,” said he; “but with the help of a wat
dishclout it might be rendered more clear and parspicuous.”
The country between Morpeth and Alnwick is dotted with peel-towers and
their ruins, built in the wild old times when the ancestors of these
peaceful Scots came in quest of spoil, laying waste the Borders far and
wide. One had but to turn aside from the road at Warrener’s House, two
miles beyond Morpeth, and thence proceed eastward for a further two, for
ten castles to be seen at once from the vantage-point of Cockle Park
Tower, itself a fine relic of a fortress belonging in the fifteenth
century to the Ogles, situated now on a farm called by the hideous name
of Blubberymires.
The peculiar appropriateness of Morpeth’s name, meaning as it does
“moor-path,” is fully realised when coming up the road, up the well-named
High Highlaws to where the road to Cockle Park Tower branches off, and
where an old toll-house stands, with “Warrener’s House,” a deserted
red-brick mansion, opposite. It is quite worth while to ask any passing
countryman the name of that house, for then the “Northumbrian burr” will
be heard in all its richness. As De Foe remarked, two hundred years ago,
Northumbrians have “a Shibboleth upon their Tongues, namely, a difficulty
in pronouncing the letter R,” and in their mouths, consequently, the name
becomes, grotesquely enough, “Wawwener.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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