The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to EdinburghHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to Edinburgh
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
The road onwards is a weariness and an infliction to the cyclist, for it
goes on in a heavy three miles’ continuous rise up to the summit of
Heiferlaw Bank, whence there is a wide and windy view of uncomfortable
looking moorlands to the north, with the craggy Cheviots, perhaps covered
with snow, to the north-west. As a literary lady—Mrs. Montagu—wrote in
1789, when on a northern journey, “These moors are not totally
uninhabited, but they look unblest.” How true!
The proper antidote to this is the looking back to where, deep down in
the vale of Aln, lie town and castle, perhaps lapt in infrequent
sunshine, more probably seen through rain, but, in any case, presenting a
picture of sheltered content, and seeming to be protected from the rude
buffets of the weather by the hill on which we are progressing and by the
wooded flanks of Brislaw on the other side. “Seeming,” because those who
know Alnwick well could tell a different tale of wintry blasts and
inclement seasons that belie the hint of this hillside prospect for three
whole quarters round the calendar and a good proportion of the fourth.
In this lies a suggestion of why the Percies were so warlike. They and
their northern foes fought to keep themselves warm! Nowadays such
courses would lead to the police-court, and so football has become a
highly-popular game in these latitudes. But the southward glimpse of
Alnwick and its surroundings from the long rise of Heiferlaw Bank is,
when sunshine prevails, of a quite incommunicable charm. The background
of hills, covered with Duke Hugh’s woods and crowned with his tower,
recalls in its rich masses of verdure the landscapes of De Wint, and if
in the Duke’s inscription on that tower he seems to rank himself in
fellowship with the Creator, certainly, now he has been dead and gone
these hundred and twenty years, his saplings, grown into forest trees and
clothing the formerly barren hillsides, have effected a wonderful change.
[Picture: Malcolm’s Cross]
Beside the road are the few remaining stones of St. Leonard’s Chapel,
and, a short distance beyond, on the right, in a grove of trees,
Malcolm’s Cross, marking the spot where Malcolm Caenmore, king of
Scotland, was slain in 1093. It replaces a more ancient cross, and was
erected by the first Duchess of Northumberland in 1774. It was on his
seventh foray into Northumberland, besieging Alnwick Castle, that Malcolm
was killed, in an ambush carefully prepared for him. The legend, which
tells how he was treacherously slain by a thrust of a spear in the eye by
one of the Percies, who was pretending to deliver up the castle keys on
the spear’s point, is untrue, as of course is the popular derivation of
the family name from “pierce eye.” Moreover, the Percies, as we have
seen, did not own Alnwick until more than two hundred years afterwards.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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