The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to EdinburghHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to Edinburgh
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
Heiferlaw, as befits so commanding a hill-top so close to the Border, has
its watch-tower, looking across the marches, whence the outlying
defenders of Alnwick, ever watchful against Scottish raids, could give
timely warning to the garrison. It stands to-day a picturesque ruin, in
cultivated fields that in those fierce old times, when men had no leisure
for peaceful arts and industries, formed a portion of the wild moorland.
“Blawweary,” they call one of these fields, and the title is as
descriptive of this exposed situation as anything in the whole range of
nomenclature. Beyond this point the road descends to a level stretch of
country leading to North Charlton, where a few farmsteads alone stand for
a village, together with a prominent hillock covered with trees and
looking as though it had, or ought to have, a story to it; a story which
research fails to unearth. Opposite, meadows called locally “Comby
Fields,” presumably from a series of ridges seen in them, seem to point
to some forgotten history. Brownyside, adjoining, is an expanse of
moorland, covered with bracken, followed by Warenford, a pretty hamlet in
a hollow by a tiny stream, with Twizel Park on the left. At Belford, a
large wide-streeted village with a nowadays all too roomy coaching inn,
the “Blue Bell,” and an old cross with gas-lamps fitted to it by some
vandal or other, the road draws near the coast; that storied Northumbrian
sea-shore where Bambrough Castle on its islanded rock, many miles of
yellow quicksands, and the Farne and Holy Islands are threaded out in
succession before the gaze. Bambrough, the apex of its pyramidical form,
just glimpsed above an intervening headland, looks in the distance like
another St. Michael’s Mount, and Holy Island, ahead, is a miniature
fellow to it. The ruined cathedral of Holy Island, the ancient
Lindisfarne, the spot whence the missionary Aidan from Iona began the
conversion of Northumbria in 634, and where he was succeeded by that most
famous of all northern bishops and saints, the woman-hating St. Cuthbert,
is the mother-church of the north, and became possessed in later times of
great areas of land through which the road now passes. Buckton, Goswick,
Swinhoe, Fenwick, Cheswick, were all “possessions” of the monastery; and
the old ecclesiastical parish of Holy Island, once including all these
places on the mainland, and constituting then an outlying wedge of Durham
in the county of Northumberland, although now a thing of the past, still
goes by the local name of Islandshire. Buckton, now a few scattered
cottages by the roadside, held a place in the old rhyme which
incidentally shows that the monks of Lindisfarne adopted that comforting
doctrine:
Who lives a good life is sure to live well.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account